
Class rprt 

Book <f 

Copvrighl N° 



COFYRI'.HT DEPOSIT. 



Elementary Woodwork 



FOR USE IN 



MANUAL TRAINING CLASSES 



BY 



FRANK HENRY SELDEN 

Supervisor of Woodworking and Pattern Making 

University of Chicago 



FULLY ILLUSTRATED 



Chicago— New York 
HAND, McNALLY & CO., PUBLISHERS 




OCT 1 1906 

COPY 8 



•O 



^ 



^ 



> 



Copyright. 1906, by Rand. McNaliy & Co. 



6 



Preface 

The object of this work is to place before pupils 
who are beginning woodwork such information as 
will lead to a correct use of the tools and lay a good 
foundation for advanced work without lessening in 
any way the other benefits of school shop work. 

It is designed for elementary rather than tech- 
nical instruction, and therefore many problems and 
suggestions found in other works have been omitted. 
Great care, however, has been taken to arrange 
and illustrate the exercises employed so that pupils 
will avoid the common error of using tools 
improperly in the first years of work, and thus escape 
fixing habits which later will cause much trouble. 
We are certain there is no need of using tools 
improperly in the first years of shop work. 

The work is so arranged that each new lesson con- 
tains a step in advance, yet is so closely related to 
the previous exercise that an ordinary pupil may 
properly comprehend and execute the new problem. 

This book is intended for class use, and the 
author has endeavored so to arrange and grade the 
exercises that they may be followed very closely. 
Where no preliminary exercises are made, and the 
pupils proceed at once to the construction of some 
complete object, the problems should be studied 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

topically as the pupil has need of them. The com- 
plete index and the cross references found in the 
text will aid greatly in finding any desired instruc- 
tion. The special information required by the 
instructor will be found in another volume 

If the methods of doing work given in the follow- 
ing pages are judged from the standpoint of first- 
class practical workmen they will be found correct 
in every case. Where there is a choice of methods, 
the one which is considered best for the pupil's use is 
given. The lessons have been tested carefully with 
many pupils, and the various processes tested not 
only in the school room, but also in years of practical 
work among mechanics. The foundation principles 
involved are treated so thoroughly that no pupil, after 
completing the book, need fear to use these methods 
in any first-class shop. In shops where special 
methods are employed these lessons will be found 
to have given a broad basis on which to build any 
special line of mechanical work. Above all, these 
exercises will give a drill in system, careful fore- 
thought, and intelligent perseverance which will be 
of great value to any pupil, either boy or girl, and 
will well repay the effort, even though the pupil 
may never use such tools after leaving school. 
Care must be taken to do the work thoroughly and 
earnestly in order to receive the full benfit of the 
course. Whenever possible, one hour and a half each 
day should be devoted to shop work. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



CONTENTS 

Introduction --•_---__ 3 

Personal Equipment ----_-_ 4 

School Equipment _______ 5 

Regulations --_______ 5 

Part 1. Elementary Exercises 
Lesson I. To True the First Surface of a Piece 

of Wood - 10 
Lesson II. To Plane an Edge at Right Angles to 

a Surface 17 

Lesson III. Use of the Gauge 20 

Lesson IV. Finishing the Third Side 23 

Lesson V. Finishing the Fourth Side - - - 25 

Lesson VI. Laying off Spaces and Lining - - 26 

Lesson VII. Bench-Hook - ... - _ - 30 

Lesson VIII. Shelf Border - 35 
Lesson IX. Boring -------38 

Lesson X. Sawing ______ 41 

Lesson XI. Chiseling ------ 44 

Lesson XII. Making the Corner Shelf - - 46 

Lesson XIII. Chiseling Ends - 47 

Lesson XIV. Sandpapering ----- 50 

Lesson XV. Shellacing - - - - - - 53 

Lesson XVI. Halved Corner ------ 56 

Lesson XVII. Finishing the Halved Corner - - 64 

Lesson XVIII. Making a Halved Tee 68 

Lesson XIX. Halved Cross - - - - - - 71 

Lesson XX. Halved Dovetail _ _ _ _ 74 

Lesson XXI. Slip Mortise and Tenon - - - - 77 

Lesson XXII. Through Mortise and Tenon - - 83 

Lesson XXIII. Frame Mortise and Tenon - - - 85 

Lesson XXIV. Blind Mortise and Tenon 88 

Lesson XXV. Single Dovetail - - - - - 91 

Lesson XXVI. Common Dovetail 93 

Lesson XXVII. Half Blind Dovetail - - - - 96 



II 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Part 



Lesson 


XXVIII 


Lesson 


XXIX. 


Lesson XXX. 


Lesson 


XXXI. 


Lesson 


XXXII. 


Lesson 


XXXIII. 


Lesson XXXIV 


Lesson 


XXXV. 


Lesson XXXVI. 


Lesson XXXVII. 


Lesson XXXVIII. 


Lesson XXXIX. 


Lesson XL. 


Lesson 


XLI. 


Lesson 


XLII. 



II. Supplementary Lessons 

Getting Out Stock 

Bench-Hook - 

Rabbeted Corner 

Gained and Rabbeted Corner 

Bridle Joint - 

Haunched Mortise and Tenon 

Dowell Joint - 

Special Dovetail Joint 

Miter Joint - 

Slip Mortise and Miter 

Glue Joint - 

Making an Octagon 

Making a Cylinder - 

Making a Pointer 

Making a Hexagon 



99 
102 
110 
112 
114 
115 
117 
120 
121 
125 
126 
130 
133 
134 
134 



Part III. Description and Use of Tools 
and Materials 

Introduction, Alcohol (See Shellac), Apron, Bench, Bench- 
Stop, Bench-Hook (See Lessons 7, 29), Bits, Bit Brace, 
Brads (See Nails), Brushes, Chisels, Clamps, Compasses, 
Files, Gauge, Glue, Grindstone, Hammer, Knife, Lumber, 
Nails and Brads, Nail Set, Oil Can, Oilstone, Paints (See 
Stains), Pencil, Planes, Putty, Rule, Sandpaper, Saws, 
Saw Set, Scraper, Screw Driver, Shellac, Stains, Square, 
Strop Tee Bevel, Try-Square, Varnish, Vise, Wax 136 to 206 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



INTRODUCTION 

These lessons take up the common tools in the 
order which the author has found to be best. They 
are so graded that the pupil should be able to 
execute each exercise in a satisfactory manner. The 
chief difficulties are carelessness and thoughtlessness. 
If the pupil reads carefully the entire text for each 
exercise before beginning it, and then re-reads the 
text, step by step in order, as the work progresses, 
he will find little difficulty in making proper progress 

As each tool is taken up, the pupil should turn 
to part III and study carefully what is said about 
that particular tool; and each day, until the lessons 
are mastered, review what is said in regard to 
the use of the tools in the lessons and also the 
description of the tools in part III. Each new 
lesson depends very largely upon those preceding. 
Therefore, only by a constant review will the pupil 
get the greatest possible benefit from his study. 
Although the directions are quite explicit, an abun- 
dance of opportunity is left for individuality in 
work. 

If proper care is taken there will be no necessity 
for giving any pupil a second piece of material for 
any exercise. This method is not only more logical, 



4 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

but more satisfactory to the pupils when they realize 
that it results in greater good to themselves. The 
author has many times had pupils, after a piece has 
been finished, voluntarily express great satisfaction 
at having been kept so long at the exercise, although 
considerable effort had been required to do so. It is 
conquering a difficult exercise that benefits the pupil 
and gives real interest in the work. The grade 
established on the first piece is apt to continue 
through the entire course. Pupils who conquer 
thoroughly the first difficulties, though perhaps at 
first dropping behind those more easily satisfied, are 
quite likely to work so much more rapidly later on 
that they will more than make up the loss of time 
on the first exercises. 

These lessons will be found very useful when 
constructing complete articles. Where no model 
joints are made, the lessons should be studied 
topically, each exercise being taken up as it occurs 
in the article being constructed. 

Personal Equipment 

Each pupil must provide himself with a suitable 
apron, an oilstone, a pocket-knife, pocket-rule, pen- 
cil, clothes-brush, soap, and towel. Each of these 
articles must be plainly marked with the pupil's name. 
No pupil should be admitted to the class until he has his 
personal equipment and each article properly marked. 
These articles may be kept either in the bench 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 5 

drawer or in the locker. For description and sugges- 
tions in regard to the above articles, see Part III. 

School Equipment 

In addition to the personal equipment, each pupil 
is provided with such tools and materials as are 
required for the exercises. A part of these tools 
are used by all of the pupils who work at one bench, 
and are called the bench-set. They are not likely 
to be injured, and therefore may be kept in a drawer 
unlocked. They consist of hammer, backsaw, 
mallet, try-square, and tee bevel. Handsaws, rip- 
saws, large square, etc., are kept in the tool room 
and given out as required. 

Each pupil is furnished with an individual 
drawer containing one guage, three bits (J inch, 
§ inch, and T \ inch), three chisels (J- inch, '* inch, 
and | inch), and two planes (a jack plane and a 
smooth plane). 

Regulations 

Pupils should enter and leave the room in an 
orderly manner. Conversation during work hours is 
prohibited, as it is impossible for pupils to do their 
best work when there is conversation in the room. 

Each pupil should have his own materials and tools 
as required, so that he may remain at his place during 
the recitation period. Every piece of material, 
including sandpaper, must be plainly marked 



6 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

by the pupil as soon as received. When the name 
is erased in working the piece, it should be placed 
on another part. When the work is completed, the 
name and elate of completion should be plainly 
written on one end, or on some other convenient 
part of the work. So far as possible, the work 
should be kept in the bench drawer. Work which 
has to be left on the finishing table to dry will be 
cared for by the instructor. 

Pieces of material left over that are large enough 
to be used for an exercise should be left on top of 
the bench or handed to the instructor. They 
should never be destroyed, mutilated, hidden, or 
thrown on the floor. At the close of each lesson the 
tools must be put in place. The bright parts which 
have been moistened by contact with the hands 
should be wiped with oily waste. Tools which require 
grinding may be reported to the instructor or left 
upon the bench. Each pupil must have a key to 
his own drawer, and will be held responsible for the 
tools, etc., which it contains. In case any tool or 
bit of material has been taken or tampered with 
during the absence of a pupil, it should be reported 
to the instructor as soon as discovered. 

At the close of the recitation, each pupil must 
brush all shavings and dirt from his bench; and 
when cleaning the bench care must be taken that 
no dirt is thrown on to adjoining benches. The 
lavatories are for use, and every pupil should wash 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 7 

his hands and brush his clothes before going to 
another recitation. 

At the close of the year each pupil may remove 
the work he has completed by paying for the ma- 
terials used, except such pieces as are needed in the 
school for exhibition. 

For each exercise a sufficient amount of material 
will be given each pupil. This material will be 
sufficient to complete the exercise properly, and only 
in very extreme cases shall more material be given. 
In no case shall any credit be given for work done on 
extra material. The first piece given must be finished 
as well as possible, even though very incorrect or 
under size; and the record will be made up from 
this piece. Sandpaper should not be used on any 
exercise until that exercise has been passed upon by 
the instructor. 

Notice 

No cutting, or marking, or jamming of the 
benches will be tolerated. On discovery of any 
injury to the bench the pupil will be required to 
pay a fine or be suspended from the class. Broken 
handles or tools will be replaced at the pupil's expense. 

The bench-hook and bench-board are to protect 
the bench from injury by saws, chisels, or other 
tools. Unnecessary cutting or injury to the bench 
hook or bench-board will be treated the same as 
injury to the bench. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



The Illustrations 

In all the work illustrated in this book the posi- 
tions should be natural and easy. Do not try to follow 

— ^ any particular 
rule or to 
copy any 
person's po- 
sition. Fig. 1 
and the illus- 
trationswhich 
follow are 
from pupils 
at work and 
not posed to 
suit the fancy 
of any one. 
They are good 
examples t o 
be studied 
rather than 
copied. They 
illustrate gen- 
eral principles 
rather than 
bits of detail. 
They are 
scrupulously 
sasl correct for the 

Fig. 1. Planing. 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 9 

particular person photographed, but may not be 
exactly the proper position for pupils of different 
height or of different physique. 

If you find yourself using much strength it is 
probably caused by not using the tools properly. 
Although you are not expected to imitate the posi- 
tions of other pupils, yet you must ever keep in mind 
that there is a correct way in which to use the tools. 
The correct way is the easiest and the best way, and 
if you have become accustomed to using the tools 
improperly, change your method at once. Do not 
insist that your way is easier or better for you. 
Change to the methods given in this book at once,, 
and you will soon be doing more and better work. 



10 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 2. Sighting for Straightness. 

Be 'particular to have the light fall properly upon the piece. 

Experiment by holding the piece in different positions. 




Fig. 3. Testing from Edge to Edge. 
The try-square may be held either side up, but the beam 
should not be placed against the edge in making this test. 
Compare this use of the try-square with that shown in 
Fig. 12. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 11 



PART I 

Elementary Exercises 

LESSON I 

To True the First Surface of a Piece of Wood 

Material — A piece of pine If inches thick, If inches 
wide, and 12J inches long. 

Examine the piece thoroughly for broken corners, 
checks, knots, and other defects. Select for this 
lesson the best surface. Examine very carefully 
the surface to be worked; first, by sighting with the 
eye from end to end to determine if it is straight 
(Fig. 2); second, by applying the try-square blade 
as shown in Fig. 3 to determine if it is straight across 
from edge to edge. Next, with both hands hold the 
piece between you and the side light, and sight across 
the piece from edge to edge, tilting it to such an 
angle as will make the line of sight pass just over the 
front edge to the back edge as shown in Fig. 4. If the 
piece is out of wind both back corners of the surface 
will show equally. If the piece is in wind one back 
corner will show more than the other back corner and 
the high back corner may be planed down. Although 
we should always look for a high back corner, we 



12 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



may take the piece out of wind by planing the alter- 
nate front corner. It is usual to plane an "equal 
amount from each of these corners or more from the 
one which is thicker. Place the piece on the bench as 
shown in Fig. 1. Do not put the piece in the vise. 




Looking for Wind or Twist. 



Remember to repeat the three tests after every few 
strokes of the plane, so that when the piece is out of 
wind it will be straight from end to end, and also from 
edge to edge. A straight edge may be used for test- 
ing the straightness of the surface. (See Fig. 5.) 

An excellent method for aiding the eyes in testing 
is to plane up three pieces as nearly perfect as 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



13 



possible and after testing them with the eyes and 
try-square, try them together. First test number 
one with number two, then number one with number 




Fig. 5. Using a Straight Edge. Learn to examine the edge as 
shown in Fig. 2. The straight edge should be used only to see 
whether the first test has been successful. 

three, and then number two with number three. 
Continue to plane and test them in this manner 
until each one will fit the other two. This exercise 
will well repay the time. The three pieces required 
for the bench-hook (Lesson 7) may be dressed up 
at once and compared in this manner. 

If in planing the surface does not work perfectly 
smooth, make a careful examination of the plane. 



14 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



When the plane is in proper order it will make a 
shaving nearly the full width of the bit. The 
shaving should be thickest at the center, and curve 
slightly to the edges. If you are not strong enough 
to cut a wide shaving, the bit may be ground so 
rounding that it will cut only a very narrow shaving. 
If the plane is cutting too thick or too thin a shaving, 
turn the brass milled thumb-nut, which is under the 
plane iron, until the proper thickness of cut is 
obtained. As the plane cuts deepest at the center 
of the cutting edge, the plane should be held parallel 
with the sides of the piece and with the center of the 

bit over the place requiring 
the heaviest cut. (See Fig. 
6.) Lift or tilt the plane on 
the return stroke so that 
the bit will not touch the 
wood. (Figs. 7, 8, 9.) Hold 
the plane firmly, but do not 
attempt to make it cut by 
using an extreme amount of 
pressure. Bear down on 
the toe, or front end, of 
the plane in starting (Fig. 
1), and on the opposite 

Fig. 6. Jointing an Edge. '> m . . 

The plane may be moved along end, or heel, in finishing 
either side or alonq the center. ,, ■. /T7 ,. irv\ t 

the stroke (Fig. 10). In case 
a shaving is to be taken off only a part of the length of 
the piece, raise the heel of the plane gradually while it 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



15 




is moving forward, or in case the shaving is to com- 
mence part way of the length, lower the heel to 
the cut while the plane is moving forward Do not 
be satisfied until 
you have a surf ace 
not only straight 
and out of wind, 
but also entirely 
free from any 
roughness caused 
by the plane. 
You will prob- 
ably discover that it is quite difficult to plane the 
piece so that it will be straight and square to the 

extreme ends. 
The reason for 
this is that you 
do not bear 
down enough 
on the toe of 
the plane and 
lift enough on 
the heel of the 



Fig. 7. Tilting the Plane. This is to avoid 
dulling the cutting edge on the return stroke. 




Fig. 8 Lifting the Plane. This is to avoid 
dulling the plane on the return stroke. 



plane as you start the stroke; and in finishing the 
stroke you do not bear down enough on the 
heel and lift enough on the toe of the plane. The 
gradual changing from bearing on one end of the 
plane to bearing on the other end of the plane is the 
one very important point which you must learn 
if you are to do good work. 



16 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 9. Swinging the Plane to one Side. 
This keeps the bit from touching the 
material on the return stroke. 



You will soon discover that some pieces of wood 
plane more smoothly in one direction than in the 
other. Always plane in the direction that will pro- 
duce the smooth- 
est surface. This 
is called planing 
with the grain. In 
some pieces the 
grain runs in both 
or many direc- 
tions, and it is 
impossible t o 
plane them en- 
tirely smooth. 
Such pieces are sometimes finished with a scraper. 
In getting the surface to the proper shape use as 
little of the material as you possibly can. This not 
only will save 
much time and 
material, but is 
also the mark of 
a skilled work- 
man. 

When the first 
surface is finished, 
make a pencil mark on it about 1 inch long. This 
mark should be near the center of the piece, from end 
to end, and at nearly right angles to the edge, and 
should extend to the edge which is to be planed 




Fig. 10. Position in Finishing the Stroke. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



17 



next (Fig. 11). This is called a face-mark, and not 
only indicates that the surface has been properly 
shaped, but also that measurements and lines are 
to be made from this side. 

This piece should always be held by placing the 

end against the 
bench stop. If 
there is a tail 
vise do not use 
it, for you will 
be more certain 
to use the plane 
properly if the 
piece is not held rigidly; and when the plane is 
properly used the piece will not move from its place 
in front of the stop, and there will be no need of 
using the vise. 




Fig. 11. Face-Marks. Unlets the piece is to 
be cut in two but one set of face-marks is 
used. When there is but one set they are 
placed near the center. 



LESSON II 

To Plane an Edge at Right Angles to a Surface 

The first edge, or second surface, is examined in 
but two ways: for straightness, as in Fig. 2, and to 
see whether it is at right angles to the first surface, 
as in Fig. 12. In using the try-square press the head 
or beam firmly against the face surface. The face 
surface is always the one having the face-mark. If 
the blade of the try-square does not touch the edge 



18 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



across its entire width, plane down the high places 
until it does. Do not try to make the plane cut at 
one side by tilting it, but move the central part of 
the bit (the part which cuts the thickest shaving) 




Fig. 12. A Try-Square on the First Edge. Observe carefully the 
position of the hands. 

over the places requiring the heaviest shaving, as 
shown in Fig. 6. 

Be careful to keep the edge straight and smooth. 
Avoid as much as you can taking shavings only a 
part of the length. Plan to have the last shaving 
extend the entire length of the piece. Move the 
plane parallel with the edge. Do not be satisfied 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 19 

until the try-square touches the entire surface. Be 
very particular to have ■ the edge straight to the 
extreme ends. Do not put this piece in the vise. 
When this edge is finished, make a face-mark on it 
the same as on the first surface, as shown in Fig. 11. 
You should exercise care in selecting the edge 
to be first planed. Plan to remove as little material 
from this edge as possible, for this will become the 
working edge, and should therefore contain the 
best material. The greater part of the excess ma- 
terial is to be removed from the third and fourth 
surfaces. If the amount of waste is large enough, 
it may be removed by using the rip-saw first, and 
afterwards finishing with the plane. 



20 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON III 

Use of the Gauge 

See that the spur is sharpened to a knife-like 
point, so that it will make a smooth line. Set the 
gauge by holding it in the left hand, the thumb under 




-1ST- 

Fig. 13. First Piece or Rule. 

the beam and against the head, the first finger on 
top of the head and the other fingers grasping 
around the beam. With the right hand hold the 
rule, opened to one foot long, against the head, and 
directly behind the spur and on top of the beam, 
Fig. 14. By pressing with the rule, or with the 
thumb and finger, the head will be moved until the 
proper line on the scale is brought directly behind 
the spur. Then lay the rule aside, holding the head 
in place by the pressure of the first finger of the left 
hand until the thumbscrew has been tightened with 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

the right hand. Test the gauge to see if it 
correctly set by applying the rule again. 



21 
been 




Fig. 1J+. Setting the Gauge. 

To draw the line, take the gauge in the right 
hand, three fingers grasping the beam — the first finger 

over the head and 
the thumb against 
the beam, and as 
nearly opposite 
the spur as is con- 
venient. Always 
place the head of 
the gauge against 
a side having a 

Fig. 15. Drawing a Gauge Line. face- mark. 




oo 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Take the piece used in Lesson 2, and, with the 
gauge set to J inch, draw a line on the side first 
trued, J inch from the face edge. Before attempt- 
ing to draw the line it is well to practice the move- 
ment of the hand and arm by rolling the gauge 
until the spur will not touch the surface of the piece, 
and then making the movement as if drawing the 
line the entire length of the piece. Next allow the 
spur to touch a very little, making a very light line. 
Gradually increase the strength of the line until a 
line of the proper heaviness has been produced. 
Next draw a line \ inch from the face, and 
then a line 1 inch from the face, and lastly a line 
1J inches from the face (Fig. 13). Make all 
these lines of equal strength and smooth and straight 
to the extreme ends. It is usually more con- 
venient to rest the end of the piece against the 
bench stop; and, in order to draw the line to the 

extreme end 
of the piece, 
itwillbeneces- 
sary to roll the 
piece as shown 
at Fig. 16. Be 
careful to hold 
the work and 

Fig. 16. Finishing a Gauge Line. gauge g() that 

you can easily see how deep the spur is cutting, and 
also whether the head of the gauge is against the 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 23 

face side. If you are careful in making a light 
line at first, you will have no serious difficulty in 
drawing a line through knots or over diagonal grain. 



LESSON IV 
Finishing the Third Side 
Take the piece used in Lesson 3 and plane the third 
side or second edge, planing down to the 1 J inch gauge 
line, making the piece 1J inches wide. It will be no- 
ticed that when you have planed sufficiently to remove 
the rough edge caused by the gauge spur that the piece 

is a very 
little less 
than 1 J in- 
ches wide. 
This is caus- 
ed by planing 
to the inside 
the 
If you 
wish to have 
the piece full 
width you 
must set 
the gauge 
enough wider 
to allow for 
planing the 
Fig. 17. Measuring. line off. 








edge of 
line. 



24 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

See that the edge is square by using the try- 
square as on the first edge (Fig. 12). If the edge 
is planed to the line, it should be straight, yet it is 
best to examine it very carefully near the ends and 
at the middle by using the rule as shown in Fig. 17. 
In measuring with the rule the fingers grasp the rule; 
the end of the thumb rests against the piece of wood, 
and the rule is moved until one of the inch gradua- 
tions is at one edge of the piece. Do not place the 
end of the rule even with one edge of the piece. 
Always hold the rule on edge, so that the graduations 
will come in contact with the surface being measured. 
You may not be pressing hard enough on the toe 
of the plane in starting, or on the heel in finishing, 
the stroke, as directed in Lesson 1. Only by planing 
the piece straight to the extreme ends will you get 
the proper control of the plane. No mark should 
be placed on this side. 

If you do not get the edge perfectly square and 
straight by the time you have reached the line, do 
not continue planing by guess, but draw another 
gauge line very near to the edge and try again to 
plane to a line. Perhaps your plane is set too heavy, 
or perhaps the iron has shifted so that it is cutting 
too much on one side. Examine your tools and the 
edge thoroughly before trying the second time; and 
then, by cutting a very thin shaving and testing the 
edge after each stroke of the plane, you should be 
able to get the edge exactly correct. If you fail 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 25 

the second time, draw another line and try again 
and again until you do succeed in getting the edge 
exactly correct. Each time work more slowly and 
with more care. Keep a constant watch of the 
condition of the plane, for it is quite impossible to 
make the edge true if the plane is not properly set 
or is dull. Review often the directions for adjusting 
and sharpening the plane given in Part III. 

LESSON V 

Finishing the Fourth Side 

Gauge the piece to 1\ inches thick on each edge 
and plane down to these lines. Use the blade of 
the try-square as in Fig. 3 to see if the surface is 
straight from edge to edge or from line to line. 
You may also use the try-square as on the second 
and third surfaces, placing the head of the try- 
square against the surface which has a face-mark. 
Also measure with the rule at each corner, as in 
Fig. 17. If all these tests show your piece to be 
correct you will have done well. If the work is 
very accurate the square will fit the fourth surface 
when the beam is against the edge which does not 
have a face-mark. Do not plane the fourth surface 
to make the try-square fit in this position. This is 
only an additional test for proving the accuracy of 
the work. There should be no mark placed on this 
surface. 



26 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



In case your piece is below size, ao not discard 
it for another piece, but work it to a smaller size, 
testing it carefully to see that it is the same size at 
each end. Should you plane below your gauge line, 
do not attempt to complete the piece by simply 
planing and measuring, but set the gauge to the 
smaller end and draw a line entirely around the 
piece. Then plane carefully to this line, and test 
with the try-square and the rule. 



LESSON VI 

Laying off Spaces and Lining 

Place the rule on the surface to be measured 
and, with the knife in the right hand and the back 
of the blade against the rule, as shown in Fig. 18, 
make a mark at the desired distance with the 
extreme point of the knife 
blade. Lay off as many points 
as you can without moving 
the rule. 

Take the piece used in 
Lesson 3, Fig. 13, and lay off 
twelve 1-inch spaces. Begin 
about \ inch from the end, so 
that there will be left at each 
end of the piece some waste 
material which may be cut off in finishing the ends 
after the scale is completed. 




Fig. 18. Marking off 
Spaces. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



27 




Fig 19. Lining. Compare this position 
with that shown in Fig. Jf.2. 



Place the point of the knife in the first mark 

and move the try-square up to the knife while holding 

it, as in lining the shelf border (Fig. 19). Hold the 

try-square firmly, 
and with the knife 
begin at the farther 
edge and draw a 
line across the piece 
close up to the 
blade of the try- 
square. In holding 
the try-square, it is 
best to place the 
thumb against the 

head, the first and second fingers on the blade, and 

the third and fourth fingers against the piece, as 

shown in Fig. 19. When the head of the try-square 

is on the opposite side, as 

in drawing lines at the 

opposite end, the fingers 

are against the try-square 

and the thumb against the 

piece (Figs. 20 and 42). 
See that the line is 

straight, and that it passes 

exactly through the center 

of the mark made by the 

point of the knife when laying off the spaces. 

Be sure to keep the head of the try-square against 




Fig. 20. Lining, 
position. 



Reverse 



28 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




the edge having the face-mark. Draw a line in a 

similar manner at each of the points. After the 

lines have been drawn the 
marks made by the point 
of the knife should not be 
visible. By standing with 
the left side a little toward 
the bench one will be more 
apt to draw the lines correct- 
ly. When near the opposite 
end the try-square and piece 
should be reversed and the 
lines drawn as shown in 
Fig. 20. In drawing lines 
on a wide piece the try-square 

is held as shown in Fig. 21. No matter how wide or 

how narrow the piece, 

the knife must be held 

at the same angle the 

entire length of the 

line. Any variation 

in the angle which the 

knife makes with the 

surface of the piece is 

quite certain to cause 

an irregularity in the 

line. If you are drawing 

lines on a piece which 

is too long to be re- Fig. 



Fig. 21 . Lining on a Wide 
Piece. 





iau 




¥ 


1* 


p~" 



Lining at the Left-Hand End. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



29 




Testing Lines. 



versed you may draw the lines at the left-hand end, 

as shown in Fig. 22. 

After completing 
these lines, go back over 
each line with the try- 
square and examine 
them very carefully to 
see if they are exactly 
straight across. Hold 
the piece up to the light, 
as shown in Fig. 23. 
Place the rule on edge on the piece and see whether the 
lines coincide with the inch lines on the rule. If 
they do not appear to be square, or at the proper 
distances, go over them again with the knife and 
correct them. 

Next lay off J inches, and draw lines through 
these points from the line which is 1 inch from the 
edge to the face edge. When these are completed 
and corrected, lay off J inches, and draw lines from 
the line which is J inch from the edge to the face 
edge. Next lay off J inches, and draw lines to the 
remaining gauge line. Be careful to make full, 
even lines, holding the knife well on the point. 
Should these lines not be neatly and accurately 
drawn, draw similar gauge lines on the opposite side, 
and repeat the knife lines as on the first side. 

Continue to practice laying off spaces and draw- 
ing lines until you can make every line correctly. 



30 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

It is useless to attempt to make joints or construct 
any of the models until you have learned to lay 
off spaces and draw lines correctly. If necessary, 
plane off the lines and try again. Make a gauge 
line to plane to, and plane the side to correct shape 
before attempting to repeat the lining. 



LESSON VII 

Bench-Hook 

Select a piece of stock of poor quality (sap or 
small knots) J of an inch thick, 4 inches wide, and 
12 inches long. Dress it with the plane on all four 
sides, planing it out of wind, the edges square, and 





& 

Fig. 2J,.. A Plain Bench-Hook. 

the ends of equal width and thickness. 

Select two more pieces of the same length and 
thickness, and each 2 inches wide. Make these also 
smooth, straight, out of wind, and their sides and 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



31 



edges parallel. Follow the 
ing these three pieces as in dr 




Fig. 25. Starting a Nail. Examine 
the nail from two positions as 
in boring (Figs. 35 and 36) . 

properly. Be careful to 



same method in work- 
essing up the first piece. 
Nail the pieces to- 
gether as shown in 
Fig. 24, using six-penny 
box wire nails. Lay 
one of the narrow pieces 
on the bench and start 
a nail as shown in Fig. 
25. After the nail has 
been driven into the 
piece a very short dis- 
tance, examine it from 
two directions to see 
if it is perpendicular 
to the surface of the 
piece. If not, move 
it with the hand until 
it is. After placing it 
in correct position, hit 
it a light blow with 
the hammer and ex- 
amine it again. Con- 
tinue to drive it a little 
at a time, examining 
it after each blow until 
you are certain it is 
entering the wood 
hold the hammer as 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



shown in Fig. 25, and drive this nail until it just 

pricks through the piece. 
See if the nail is properly 
located to enter the center 
of the edge of the wide 
piece, and not so near 
the end as to split the 
piece. Start three more 
nails in the same man- 
ner, being careful to lo- 
cate them correctly (Fig. 
24). After the four nails 




Driving a Nail. 



are properly started, place the piece containing 
them on the edge of the wide piece and adjust it 
so that the edge of the narrow piece will be even 
with the surface of the 
wide piece (Fig. 26). 
The points of the nails 
will help to keep the 
piece in place while you 
take the hammer and 
drive the first nail into 
the wide piece. If the 
nails were driven 
through too far in start- 
ing, turn the piece over Fig. 27. Using a Nailset. 
and drive them back until they will just scratch the 
edge of the wide piece. 

If the piece now appears to be all right, drive 
the nails in their full length and, with the nailset, 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



33 




set the heads about -^ of an inch below the surface, 

as shown in Fig. 27. If 
no nailset is at hand, the 
head of a nail may be 
used as a nailset, as 
shown in Fig. 28. 

In case you wish to 
withdraw a nail after it 
is partly driven, use a 

Fig. 2S, Using a Nail for a claw-hammer and block, 
X( ' llstt as shown in Fig. 29. 

After the two pieces are 

nailed to the edges of the 

wide piece examine them 

to see if their edges are 

smooth, or flush, as it is 

termed, with the surface of 

the wide piece. If the joints 

are not flush, plane them 

down as shown in Fig. 30. 

A ,i i i i i Fig. 29. Withdrawing a 

As the bench-hook is J L Nai i 

to be used as a cutting board and for saw- 

ing, etc., it is not 
necessary to 
smooth the ends. 
When it is a 1 1 
completed, look it 
over carefully to 
see how well the 





Fig. 30. Planing a Joint Flush. 



34 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

pieces fit each other, and whether they appear to 
have been well planed. Supplementary Lesson 
No. 28 is a bench-hook of a more difficult design, 
which may be made in place of this one. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



35 




Fig. 31 . Jointing an Edge of a Thin 
Piece. Use the vise only ivhen the 
piece is too thin to hold against the 
stop. Except for very light planing 
you should stand more at the end of 
the piece than the young man in this 
picture. Compare this position 
with that shown in Fig. 1. 



LESSON VIII 
Shelf Border 

^The stock for this 
exercise should be of 
good quality straight- 
grained pine. It 
should be 17J inches 
long, 3 J inches wide, 
and -^ inch thick. 
Dress up the best side 
and best edge, as in 
Lessons 1 and 2, ex- 
cept that in jointing 
the edge you should 
place the piece in the 
vise, as shown in 
Fig. 31. Gauge to 3 
inches wide and finish 
the second edge. 
Gauge to J inch thick 
and finish the back, 
or second side. 

Lay off on the 
back, or second side, 
\ inch spaces, leaving 
about \ inch of waste 
•at each end. Draw 



36 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



lines with knife and try-square across the piece 
through each of these marks, as shown in Figs. 19 and 

20. Test the 
lines carefully, as 
shown in Fig. 23. 
Set the gauge 
to 2J inches and 
draw a line on 
the second, or 
back side. This 
line should be 
just | inch from 
the second, or 
back edge, and, 
if the piece is un- 
der size, set the 
gauge enough 
less than2Jinch- 
es to make the 
line just J inch 
from the back 
edge. Do not 
set the gauge to 
i inch and gauge 

Fig. 32. Lining on an Edge. Notice that - fe & 

the workman stands erect with the hands in from the back 
an easy position. Compare the position of , , , 

the tmj-square with that shown in Fig. 33. edge, DUt Set me 

gauge so that when the block is against the face 
edge the spur will make a line just -| inch from 
the back edge. If you have a lead pencil point in 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



37 



your gauge (as shown in Fig. 154), use it instead 
of the spur in drawing this line. Draw gauge lines 
on each edge J inch from the 
face side. 

With the knife and try-square 
draw lines on each edge from the 
ends of the lines which are on 
the back side across the edge to 
the gauge line which is J inch 
from the face side. Be careful 
to have the lines meet exactly 
at the edge. The piece may be 
held in the vise while drawing 
the lines on the edges, as shown 




Fig. 33. Lining on 
an Edge. Reverse 
Position. 



in Figs. 32 and 33. 
To set the try- 
square for draw- 
ing the lines on the 
edges, catch the 
point of the blade 
in the end of the 
line on the side 
and move the try- 
square up to the 
blade, as in lining 
around the rule 
(Fig. 42). 




Try-Square at the Side of the Bit 



38 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON IX 



the -^ inch bit and put it in place in 



Boring 

Select 

the bit brace. Place the shelf border in the vise and 
make an X on every second line where the lines cross 

the line which is i 
inch from the back 
edge, beginning 
with the third line 
from the ends. 
There should be 
sixteen marks. 

Place the spur 
of the bit at the 
points indicated by 
the marks exactly 
where the knife 
lines cross the 
gauge line (Fig. 71). 
Raise the brace to 
a position at right 
angles to the sur- 
face of the piece. 
These angles may 
be tested with the 
try-square (as in 
Fig. 34) ; but it is better to stand first in front of 




Fig. 85. Boring. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



39 



the piece as shown in Fij 
bit is at right angles as 




Fig. 36. Boring. Compare this position with 
that shown in Fig. 35. 

attempting to examine the bit and 



;. 35, to be sure that the 
seen from this side, and 
then step to 
the end of 
the piece as 
showninFig. 
36, still 
holding the 
brace in the 
same posi- 
tion, and see 
whether it is 
correctasex- 
aminedfrom 
the end. A 
little prac- 
tice in this 
manner will 
make it pos- 
sible to bore 
holes at right 
angles to the 
surface with- 
out the use 
of the try- 
square. Do 
not make the 
mistake o f 
brace from 



40 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

more than the two positions. As it is often quite 
difficult to apply the try-square, and as it consumes 
more time, it is far better to learn to do without it. 

When you are quite certain that the bit is in 
correct position, turn the brace slowly, being careful 
that the upper end of the brace does not move 
sidewise. If the bit is a good make and properly 
sharpened, it will cut without any pressure on 
the knob. One hand should keep the brace per- 
pendicular and the other hand revolve it. It is 
not important which hand is on the knob, or which, 
on the sweep, for often, when many holes are to be 
bored, you will change hands in order to rest 
them. As soon as the spur can be felt at the other 
side, remove the bit and bore the next hole. Con- 
tinue in this manner until all the holes have been 
bored from one side. Then place the piece in the 
vise, face side up, and finish the holes by placing 
the spur of the bit in the hole made while boring 
from the other side. Do not think that you need 
not be careful in boring from this side, for if the 
brace is not perpendicular to the surface, you will 
be likely to split off some of the edge of the hole on 
the back side. It is to avoid this roughness that 
you bore from both sides. 

If the board has a tendency to split it should be 
moved in the vise, so that the pressure of the vise 
will tend to keep it from splitting. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



41 



LESSON X 
Sawing 




Fig. 37. Using the Back saw. 



Place the 
shelf border on 
the bench-hook 
and take the po 
sition for sawing 
shown in Fig. 37. 
In starting the 
cut, guide the 
saw by holding 
the side of the 
finger or thumb- 
nail against the 
side of the saw 
just above the 
teeth. It is best 
to begin by mov- 
ing the saw for- 
ward and back- 
ward the full 
length, resting it 
against the 
thumb or finger, 
but not allowing 
it to touch the 
piece. Next 



42 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



lower it so that it will touch the back corner a very 
little, and continue moving it forward and backward, 
but do not allow it to cut. After you are sure that 

you have the 
correct mo- 
tion, allow it 
to cut a very 
little, grad- 
ually lowering 
the hand and 
cutting far- 
ther across 
until the kerf 
extends en- 
tirely across 
the surface. 
Do not rest 
the saw full 
weight on the 
board while it 
shows any 
tendency to 
catch when 
making the 
f o r w a r d 
stroke. Fig. 38 indicates the various positions of 
the saw in starting and gradually lowering the 
hand until the kerf extends entirely across, when 
the saw is nearly or quite level. Do not try to start 




Fig. 38. Positions in Starting the Saw. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 43 

the saw by drawing it toward you and then lifting 
it on the forward stroke. Learn to control the saw 
properly, and then there will be no need to draw 
it backward to start it. 

See that the saw cuts very close to the line, but 
that it does not cut the line. The line should not 
be broken or roughened by the teeth of the saw. 
Neither should there be any material between the 
saw kerf and the knife line. Watch carefully the 
knife lines down the edges, and continue sawing 
until the kerf extends to the lines which are J inch 
from the face side. Be very careful to saw exactly 
to the lines and no farther, for the piece is to be bent; 
and if the sawing is not well done, the piece may 
break instead of bend. 

You may set a try-square at the side of the saw 
to see when it is at right angles to the surface (as 
in Fig. 95), but it is better to accustom the eye to 
see the correct angle by looking at the corner in 
which the try-square would be placed. Avoid look- 
ing directly clown upon the saw. Always look' 
obliquely to the surface of the board. Saw at the 
same side of each line, except one line at each end, 
which is to be left until you are ready to smooth 
the ends. Begin near one end and change ends as 
you near the opposite end. After cutting all the 
lines, except the end ones, place the piece in the 
vise and saw from the edge into each hole. 



44 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XI 
Chiseling 

Lay the piece for the shelf border on the cutting 
board and grasp the J inch chisel as shown in Fig. 
39. Remove a very little of the corner at a time, 
and move the chisel forward and downward at the 
same time. The points may be marked off as 
shown in Fig. 41 in the completed shelf; yet it is 
probably better not to mark them off, as it is 
necessary to go over them several times, each time 
making them a little nearer the correct size and 
shape until they are all alike and of good proportion. 
If lines are drawn you will probably try to remove 
too large a shaving at one time. 

If the chisel is properly sharpened and moved 
downward and forward at the same time, the sur- 
face will be cut glossy smooth. Do not be satisfied 
until this smoothness is attained, as it is to learn 
to cut smoothly with the chisel that this exercise is 
given. When the chisel is properly held and used, 
it requires but very little force to make the cut. If 
much force is required try to discover what is wrong. 

Always hold the chisel perpendicular to the 
surface of the piece being cut, and with the flat side 
in line with the arm (Figs. 39 and 40). Always 
place the flat side of the chisel against the wood, 
reversing it in the hand as you change from cutting 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



45 



at one side of the point to the other side. If the 
points have a tendency to split, or if pieces tend to 
roll out, it is because the chisel is dull, or because 
you are not holding it perpendicular to the surface 
of the board, or not moving it forward enough in 
proportion to the distance downward. It may be 




Fig 89. Using a Chisel. 



Fig. 40. Using a Chisel. 
Reverse Position. 



caused by any one of these mistakes or by a com- 
bination of two or more of them. In any case, 
keep trying until it does cut smoothly and squarely. 
After you have made the points as nearly correct 
as you can make them by testing them with your 
eye, test them with the rule and try-square. 



46 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



When you have all the points finished, lay the 
piece aside until you have made the shelf. 

LESSON XII 
Making the Corner Shelf 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 47 

The border completed in Lesson 11 is intended 
for a corner shelf. The shelf should be similar in 
shape to the one shown in Fig. 41. If the border 
does not bend easily the curve may be nearer straight. 

Get out a piece of board about J inch thick and 
cut one edge of it to the curve desired. The curve 
may be drawn freehand and then sawed with the 
compass saw or with the handsaw and finished 
with the smooth plane. In planing the edge of the 
shelf, hold it on edge in the vise. Nail the border 
to place and cover the nailheads with a thin strip of 
pine dressed to a half oval, or with fancy-headed 
nails, such as are shown in Fig. 162 B. 

After the border is in place, cut the remaining 
edges to the desired shape and finish them smoothly 
with a plane. The shelf may be suspended by 
using either screw-eyes, cords, or laid upon cleats 
fastened to the wall. 

The entire shelf should be finished with three 
coats of shellac. 

LESSON XIII 

Chiseling Ends 

Take the piece you lined like a scale or rule in 
Lesson 6 and draw a line on all four sides at the 
end of the scale. This line is drawn by placing the 
point of the knife blade in the end of the line (Fig. 
42) and moving the try-square blade up to it, keep- 



48 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

ing the head of the try-square firmly against the 
side having a face-mark. After the try-square is in 
position, draw a line as in making the scale (Figs. 
19 and 20). Be very careful to have the knife at 
the same angle when drawing the line as it was 




Fig. 42. Lining Around an End. Compare the position of the 
try-square and fingers shown in this figure with the positions 
shown in Figs. 19, 20, 21,32, and 38. 

while setting the try-square; otherwise the lines will 
not meet exactly. Draw lines on the remaining 
two sides in a similar manner, and note that the 
try-square head has to be reversed in order to keep 
it against a side having a face-mark. 

After drawing lines at each end, place the piece 
on the bench-hook and saw. the ends off with the 
backsaw. This time do not saw close up to the 
line, but about -fe inch away from it, because the 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



49 



saw does not leave a smooth surface. After the 
ends are sawed off, take the chisel in the right hand, 
as shown in Fig. 43, and smooth the ends. Be 
particular to use a shearing cut, the same as in 
chiseling the shelf border (Lesson 11), so that the 

ends will be cut 
very smoothly. 
Cut about half- 
way across from 
each side, but do 
not cut from 
either edge. Test 
the ends with the 
try-square, and if 
they are not 
square and 
smooth draw lines 
around again, this 
time about -^ inch 
from the end, and try again to chisel the ends smooth. 
Keep trying until the ends are smooth and square, 
even if the scale is less than 1 foot long. Remember 
that it is useless to try to chisel the ends properly 
after you have cut beyond the line made by the knife. 
When the ends are finished the glossy surface made 
by the side of the point of the knife blade should 
be visible entirely around each end. 




Fig. 4.3. Chiseling an End. 



50 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XIV 
Sandpapering 

Take a sheet of No. § flint paper, or sandpaper, 
as it is commonly called, and lay it, paper side up, 

on the bench. Place 
the hacksaw across 
it so that the teeth 
of the saw will be at 
the center of the 
sheet, and tilt the 
blade to bring the 
teeth firmly against 
the paper. With the 




Fig. 4.4.. Tearing Sandpape 



right hand grasp one 
corner of the paper and 
pull upward and toward 
the saw, tearing the paper 
across the center as shown 
in Fig. 44. Tear one of 
these pieces again, mak- 
ing a piece J the size of 
the sheet. Tear a sheet 
of No. 1§ paper in the 
same manner. 

Place the half sheet 
of No. 1| paper on the 
bench with the flint side 
up. Hold the scale com- 






Fig 4.5. Sandpapering an End. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 51 

pleted in the last lesson as shown in Fig. 45. Hold it 
very firmly, and move it from you without allowing it 
to shake or tip. Notice that the thumb and 
fingers are as near the paper as they can be without 
being injured. Examine the end of the piece often, 
using a try-square, and each time change the posi- 
tion of the piece, so that it will be smoothed and 
yet kept straight and square. When all the rough- 
ness left by the chisel has been removed, repeat the 
operation, using the half sheet of No. \ paper. Con- 
tinue using this paper until the surface appears 
bright and the grain of the wood shows plainly. 
The coarse paper is to remove the tool marks, and 
the finer paper is to remove the fine white torn 
grain and scratches made by the coarse paper. 
You will notice that it is possible to remove only 
small irregularities with the coarse paper, for if 
we try to remove any large defects the corners will 
become rounded, and it will be necessary to reline 
and rechisel the end. In no case leave the corners 
rounded, for round corners are the mark of the 
shiftless workman. 

When each end has been properly smoothed, 
take a quarter sheet of the No. J paper and fold it 
carefully to \ sheet size. Hold it as shown in Figs. 
46 and 47, and smooth the four sides. Do not use 
a block for work of this kind, as it would surely 
round the corners and spoil the work. Be very 
careful not to rub much near the ends or edges. 



52 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 4.6. Sandpapering a Side, 
this view with Fig. Jfl. 



ompare 



Remember that the paper cuts most directly under 

the fingers, and therefore be careful how you press 

upon the paper, 
and frequently 
change the po- 
sition of the 
fingers, so that 
the paper will be 
worn evenly. Do 
no more rubbing 
than is necessary 
to make a 
smooth, glossy 

surface. Too much sandpapering is as bad as too 

little. By holding the work up to the light you can 

easily distinguish 

the smooth from 

the rough places. 

Learn also to test 

the work by feeling 

with the hand or 

fingers. 

Look closely at 

your work, and you 

will discover that it 

isbesttorublength- 

wise of the grain. 

1 1 i 1 Fig. 47. Sandpapering. Observe that the 

nciatcnes made by paper docs not touch the edge of the piece. 

rubbing across the grain are quite apt to injure 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



53 



the appearance of the finish. It is necessary to rub 
both with the grain and against the grain in order to 
remove the fine fibers which stick up on the surface. 



LESSON XV 



Shellacing 




Fig. 48. Shellacing. 



See that you have 
not forgotten to 
write your name and 
date on the piece. 
Wipe the dust from 
the piece and drive 
a small nail or brad 
into one end by 
which to hold it. 

See that the shel- 
lac is not too thick. 
Fill the brush, and 
wipe the excess off 
by drawing the end 
of the brush over 
the wire placed 
across the dish for 
this purpose. Shel- 
lac the ends first, 
next the edges, and 



54 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

lastly the sides. Do not draw the brush against 
the corners, as it will cause the shellac to pile up 
there. When the shellac is dry, this excess will 
show plainly and is not easily removed. It 
is a good rule to brush from the center outward. 
Wnen applying the shellac, hold the piece so that 
you see the light reflected from the surface, as this 
is the only position in which you can see exactly 
what you are accomplishing (Fig. 48). 

When you have gone over the piece, stand or 
lean it up to dry. Do not go over the surface in places 




Fig. Jf.9. Scraping Thick Places in the Finish. 

more than once. Some spots will absorb the finish 
very rapidly and others very slowly. To get a good 
finish the first coat of shellac should be laid on evenly 
and allowed to dry thoroughly before more is added. 
After the piece has dried for one or more days, 
smooth it to a nice glossy surface with No. J sand- 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 55 

paper. At the corners or other places where, by 
mistake, the finish is very thick, use the scraper 
as shown in Fig. 49. Hold the scraper as near vertical 
as it will cut. There is great danger of scraping or 
rubbing too much and thus spoiling the finish. 
The most common mistake is to rub at the corners 
or at a small spot in the center until it shows white. 
By keeping a constant watch, and often changing 
the position of the fingers on the paper, this may 
be avoided. When the piece is ready for the second 
coat of finish it will feel smooth and glossy to the 
touch and will present a dead smooth surface when 
held up to reflect the light. 

Apply the second coat the same as the first 
one, except that it may be somewhat thinner and 
must be applied with more care, more evenly, and 
much more quickly. Several more coats of finish 
may be applied in the same manner. 



56 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XVI 

Halved Corner 

The stock for this exercise should be of pine or 
other soft wood. It should be 12J inches long, 
If inches wide, and 1J inches thick. Dress up 
the piece on all four sides in the same manner, and 




*r 



«*o 



■♦-■at- 




Fig. 50. Halved Corner. 



follow the same order that you did in planing the 
first piece or scale. Remember what is said in 
Lesson 4 about setting the gauge so that you may 
plane off the line and yet have the piece full size. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



57 



We wish to have this piece of correct size, and 
straight to the very ends. The face side and face 

edge must be plainly 
marked as directed in 
Lessons 1 and 2 and shown 
in Fig. 11. This piece 
requires two sets of face- 
marks because it is to be 
cut in two. 

Study the drawing 
(Fig. 50) until you under- 
stand thoroughly what is 
to be made. Lay out the 
piece as indicated by the 
drawing, using the try- 
square and knife to make 
the lines at right angles 
to the edges, and the 
gauge to make the lines 
parallel with the edges. 
Do not forget that the 
gauge lines must be drawn 
with the head of the 
gauge against one of the 
surfaces which has a face- 
mark. In changing from 
one side to the other side 
you should revolve the 
piece end for end in order 





Till 


• 


I 
f ■ 

mm 

ifl 

li 

mm 


1 - 



Fig. 51. Drawing Lines Across 
an End. 



58 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 52 Splitting out Waste Material. 
Do not use this method until you 
have learned to work as shown in 
Figs. 58 A and 53 B. 

finished work 



to bring, or rather to 
keep, the face-mark 
at the right side, so 
that the head of the 
gauge will be against 
the face-mark as the 
gauge is held in the 
right hand. 

The reason for al- 
ways working from 
face-marks may not 
be understood by the 
pupil while making 
these first exercises, 
but it must be care- 
fully attended to or 
later on much work 
will be spoiled. Draw 
gauge lines not only 
at the sides but also 
at the ends, holding 
the gauge and piece 
as shown in Fig. 51. 
Be careful not to draw 
lines beyond where 
the wood is to be re- 
moved, for if you do 
they will show on the 
Set the gauge to the exact distance 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



50 




when you are drawing lines for making joints and 
the like. The directions for setting the gauge a 

little large, so that 
the entire line may 
be planed off, apply 
only to lines drawn 
for the sizing of the 
piece. After the 
knife lines and 
guage lines are all 
drawn, examine 
the piece thorough- 
ly to see if all are 
correct. If any 

Fig. 53A . Chiseling at the Right Hand End. niistakes are found 

correct them at once. M ark the parts to be cut away 
at each end with a large X so that you will not make 
a mistake and cut 
from the wrong 
side. In this case, 
one mark will be 
on the upper, or 
face, side and the 
other mark on the 
lower, or back, side 
of the piece. 

Lav the Diece ^ig.5SB. Chiseling at the Left Hand End. 

on the bench-hook, and with the backsaw saw just 
enough to one si.de of the line to allow for smooth- 




60 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



ing the end grain with the chisel, as in smoothing 
the end of the scale in Lesson 13. Saw each end, 
remembering to turn the piece over in sawing the 
second end. Be very careful to stop exactly at the 
gauge line. 

With the piece on the bench-hook and the chisel 
in hand, as shown in Fig. 53 A, remove the waste 
material a very little at a time. After you have 




Fig. 54. Testing a Gain with a Chisel. 

become skilled in using the tools you may place 
the piece on edge and remove a large piece at once 
by using the chisel and mallet as shown in Fig. 52, 
but for the first exercises it is best to do the work 
without a mallet and cut as thin and smooth shav- 
ings as you can. Instead of trying to do the work 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



61 



quickly, see how many and how wide and how thin 
shavings you can make. To begin this way will 
result in your doing more and better work in the 
future. By holding the chisel at a slant, so that 
one corner cuts ahead of the other, it will cut more 
easily and more smoothly. The way of the grain will 




Fig. 55. Testing a Gain with a Try-Square. The head 
of the try-square is not held against the piece. 

determine which corner is to cut ahead. Examine the 
pictures carefully and hold your tools in the same man- 
ner. Never place your fingers or hand where the chisel 
might injure them if it should slip, or the piece split. 



62 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Slant the chisel so that it will be farther from 
the line on the back side than on the front side. 
Continue to work the notch down until the chisel 
is almost to the gauge line, then place the chisel 
exactly and squarely in the line and make a careful 
cut, finishing the gain at this point. When you 
have cut to the line at this edge, reverse the piece, 

holding it and the 
chisel as shown in 
Fig. 53 B, and cut to 
the line on this edge. 
It is not necessary to 
work much of the 
gain from this side. 
Do not use the vise 
for holding the piece. 
If you were a skilled 
mechanic you would 
not take the time to 
use the vise, and for 
the unskilled work- 
man to use the vise 
is to lose the opportunity to learn that which the 
exercise is intended to teach. 

Handle the tools with as little force as possible, 
for if they are properly used not much force is re- 
quired. Use the chisel or blade of the try-square to 
test the gain, as shown in Figs. 54, 55, and 56. After 
each end has been properly finished, draw two 




Fig. 56. Testing a Gain with a 
Try-Square. The head of the try- 
square is held against the face edge 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



63 



lines aroum 




the center of the piece about -g\ of 
an inch apart and saw between 
them. Try the pieces together, 
placing the face-marks at the 
inside, as shown in the drawing 
(Fig. 50). Place the try-square 
at the inside angle to see if the 
pieces make a right angle as 
shown in Fig. 57, except that in 
testing the joint before it is glued 




Fig. 57. Testing the 
Joint. Before the 
piece has been glued 
the joint should be 
placed on the bench 
and the try-square 

appliedas indicated F{ 58 HaUed Corn<?r Cla d 

in this figure. r 

you will lay it and the try-square upon the bench. 
See that the joint fits tightly at all places. If the 
joint is not right, do not try to make it fit by cut- 
and-try methods, but find out what place is wrong 
and then reline it and work exactly to the line. 
Continue testing and relining until the fit is correct. 
When the joint is finished put a little glue on 
the surfaces which come in contact. Allow the 



64 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

glue to dry until it will string out like cobwebs 
when touched with the finger. Then place the 
pieces together, being very careful to keep them in 
correct position, and put a clamp on them to hold 
them in place until the glue has dried (Fig. 58). 
Be careful that the clamp does not cause the pieces to 
slip apart. Always place the clamp on work so 
that the joint may be examined after the clamp 
has been tightened. (Read what is said about 
clamps in Part 3.) 

LESSON XVII 
Finishing the Halved Corner 

After the glue has properly set, which will 
require several hours, remove the clamp. Take 
off any surplus glue with a chisel, being careful 
not to roughen the surface of the wood. The pieces 
should be smooth at the sides where they join, but 
if they are not, plane down the side having a face 
mark until it is even, or flush, with the other face 
surface. Considerable care is required to avoid 
working the piece tapering or small at the outer 
end. Also avoid planing too much at the outer 
edge. Apply a straight edge or the try-square 
blade as shown in Figs. 59 and 60. Move the try- 
square over the entire surface and be very particular 
to have the plane cut at the proper place. In order 
to have the plane cut properly it is frequently neces- 
sary to take a shaving first from one of the pieces 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



65 



and then from the other, changing from one to the 
other at every stroke of the plane. When this side 
is correct, set the gauge to the thinnest corner and 
gauge around the piece to determine how much 




Fig. 59. First Test After Gluing. 

is to be taken from the opposite, or back, side. 
Test this side the same as the first side, in addition 
to planing to the gauge lines. 

After the sides are finished, place the piece in 
the vise as shown in Fig. 61, and plane the rough 



66 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



ends down even with the edge of the piece. Should 
the stub ends project more than J inch, line them 
with a knife and saw them to within 3V of an 
inch of the face of the other piece. Finish the 




Fig. 60. Second Test After Gluing. 

other end in the same manner. Measure the pieces 
at the ends and near the corner to determine if 
they are the same size at each end. If they are 
not, plane them until they are. Also test them by 
applying the head of the square to the face side 
and the blade along the outside edges. Also apply 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 67 

the square as shown in Figs. 57 and 62. All of these 




Fig. 

tests are required 
correct. When 




Fig. 62. Testing the 
Outside of the Comer. 



61. Planing in the Vise. 

to determine whether the piece is 
the sides and edges are com- 
pleted, line around them with 
knife and try-square, making 
them 6 inches long at the 
outside edge. Saw and chisel 
these ends the same as you did 
the ends of the first piece. 

Finish this joint with sand- 
paper and apply two coats of 
shellac. The ends should be 
held in the same manner as the 
ends of the rule in Lesson 14 
(Fig. 45). The end grain at the 
corners may be sanded as shown 
in Fig. 63, but the outer edges 
should be finished by holding 
the paper as shown in Figs. 46 



68 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

and 47. In sanding, where two pieces join with 
their grain running at right angles, as on the 
surfaces at the corners, sand the piece first 
which necessitates the paper passing over and 

scratching the other piece. 
Then sand the otherpiece, 
working carefully up to 
the end of the first piece 
with the folded edge of 
the sandpaper. This will 
finish the joint without 
leaving any marks from 
the paper on either piece. 
To smooth the edges at 
the inside of the corner, fold the sandpaper at a 
fresh*' place and press it closely into the corner. 
A scraper is sometimes of assistance in finishing 
in corners. Be very careful not to round the ends 
or edges. 




Fig. 63. Sandpapering at the 
Corner. The end grain only 
is sanded in this manner. 



LESSON XVIII 

Making a Halved Tee 

The stock for this exercise should be the same 
as for the halved corner (Lesson 16). 

Reduce the piece to the exact width and thick- 
ness. Leave the ends rough. Lay off the halved 
end by following the drawing in the same manner 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



69 



as you laid off the left-hand end of the halved 
corner (Lesson 16, Fig. 50). Remember to make 
all gauge lines with the head of the gauge against 
the face side. Cut the piece in two by drawing 



^-* 




SB 



-/*- 



-p^ 




-r 



Q 



Fig 64. Halved Tee. 

two lines entirely around it near the center and 
sawing between them, as in Lesson 16. Draw one 
of the lines for the side of the gain with the try- 
square and knife. Place the end which is to fill 
the gain or notch onto the piece which is to be cut 



70 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




out and mark the width of the gain with the knife, 
as shown in Fig. 65. Remove the piece and draw 

a line with the knife and 
try-square just inside of 
the point made in mark- 
ing the width. As the 
piece must fit the gain 
exactly, a line drawn at the 
side of the piece or through 
the mark made by the 
knife point would make 
the gain the width of the 
line too wide. This 
method of determining the 
width of a gain or similar opening is called "super- 
position." Make your lines exactly correct, and 
work exactly 
to them. 
Make smooth 
fine lines both 
with the knife 
and the gauge. 
Saw just 
enough inside 
the lines to 



Fig. 65. Getting the Width by 
Superposition. 




Fig. 66. Making a Shearing Cut in a Gain. 



allow for finishing the sides of the gain with the chisel. 
Do not think that because the sides of the gain will 
not show when the piece is together, that it does 
not matter how the end grain at the sides of the 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 71 

gain is cut. All such places should be cut very 
smooth, using the shearing cut the same as in 
smoothing the ends in Lesson 13, Fig. 43. Work 
the bottom of the gain the same as the halved cor- 
ner. Use a shearing cut as much as you can, and 
hold the piece as shown in Fig. 66. 

This piece should fit close enough to stay 
together without gluing. Dress off the end of the 
piece at the gain, or joint, with the plane, hording 
the plane at an angle of 45 degrees but moving it 
directly parallel with the edge (Fig. 61). Line 
and chisel the ends the same as the halved corner 
(Lesson 17), but do not plane the sides or use any 
sandpaper on either the ends or sides of this piece 

Write your name and the date on the face side 
near one end. 

LESSON XIX 
Halved Cross 

Stock If inches thick, If inches wide, 8J inches 
long, of pine or basswood. 

This piece should be worked to exactly 1^ 
inches by 1\ inches. As each half is to fit into a 
gain, it is very essential that the piece be made 
exactly square and exactly the same size at each 
end. You should now be able to work your material 
to size and square with little difficulty. Place 
two sets of face-marks on the piece so that you can 



72 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



find the face edge after the piece has been cut in 
two Unless you are very careful you will make 
the mistake of cutting both notches or gains from 




Fig. 67. Halved Cross. 

the same side, so that when the pieces are placed 
together the face-marks will not both be on the 
same side, as they ought to be. 

Lay off the two pieces by superposition as 
described in Lesson 18. Work the gains in the 
same manner as the gain in the halved tee (Lesson 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 73 

18). Finish one piece all ready to be placed to- 
gether, and then finish the other piece, doing all 
the work before the pieces are tried together in any 
way after the lines have been made. 

When both are completed, put them together; 
and if you have done your work properly, they will 
slip together without the aid of a hammer, and 
will also be tight at every point. Finish the ends 
with the chisel, making the pieces each 4 inches 
long. Do not plane the sides or use any sandpaper 
on this joint. 



74 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XX 
Halved Dovetail 

Stock and finished sizes for this piece are the 
same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19). 

Set the gauge and draw the gauge lines the same 
as in making the halved tee (Lesson 18). Lay out 




Fig. 68. Halved Dovetail. 

the dovetail by drawing 2 oblique lines on the face 
side with the knife and try-square. Use the try- 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



75 



square blade as a straight edge in drawing the oblique 
lines. Draw knife lines across the back side, across 
each edge, and on the face side from the edges to 
the oblique lines. First remove the waste material 
at the back of the dovetail, leaving the end the 
same as the left-hand end of the halved corner 
(Lesson 16). Next saw in from the edges to the 
oblique lines and remove the triangular piece with 

a chisel. Hold t h e 
piece in the vise and 
work from the end, 
as shown in Fig. 69. 
It is very essential 
that the sides of the 
dovetail be exactly 
square with the sur- 

Fig.69. Working a Dovetail in a Vise, f ace and the trv- 

square should be used on these sides very carefully, 
the piece being removed from the vise each time 
in order to look toward the light. 

After completing the dovetail and testing it 
carefully, place it in position on the face side of the 
other piece. Mark very fine lines indicating where 
the piece is to be cut out to receive the dovetail. 
Remove the dovetail and, with the try-square 
blade used as a straight edge, draw lines just inside 
of the fine lines. Draw lines from the ends of these 
lines down to the gauge lines on each side. Saw 
and chisel the opening for the dovetail the same 




76 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

as in working the gain for the tee (Lesson 18, Figs. 
54 and 66). 

This joint must fit together sufficiently close 
to require no gluing. The end of the dovetail may- 
be finished with the plane the same as the halved 
corner (Lesson 17, Fig. 61). The ends are to be 
finished by sawing with the backsaw close up to 
the knife line. The ends are finished in this manner 
in order to give practice in sawing exactly to a 
line, as in Lesson 10. If you are unable to saw the 
ends neatly, practice on a piece of waste material 
of a similar size. Do no sawing except when you 
have correct knife lines drawn entirely around the 
piece. If the sawing is well done the piece will fit 
closely to another piece when placed against it, and 
yet the knife line will be visible around the end. 
Joints are often made entirely by sawing, no smooth- 
ing being done with chisel, plane, or other edge tool. 
Do not plane the sides or use any sandpaper on this 
joint. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



77 



LESSON XXI 
Slip Mortise and Tenon 

Stock and finished sizes are the same as for the 
halved cross (Lesson 19). 

Lay off and work each end as indicated by the 
drawing (Fig.70)before cutting the piece in two. First 
set the gauge to f inch and draw the lines for 
the side of the mortise, and also the lines for the 




a n 

4 HT-H 




1 t^ao 



Fig. 70. Slip Mortise and Tenon. 



78 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



side of the tenon which is next the face side. Draw 
lines across the ends as well as at the sides. Set 
the gauge to | inch and draw the lines for the 




Fig. 71. Setting a Bit to Bore a Hole. 

other side of the tenon and mortise. Measure 
l^g- inches from each end and draw the lines for 
the ends of' the tenon and mortise, using a knife 
and try-square. In drawing the lines for the tenon 



ELEMENTARY w OODWORK 



79 



do not draw across the tenon. In drawing the lines 

for the inside end of the mortise begin at one edge, 

drawing a line J 
inch long between 
the gauge lines, 
and also make a 
mark at the corner 
to set the square 
by in carrying the 
line around to the 
other side. Set 
the square to this 
mark, and make a 
similar mark t/fr 
the opposite 
corner. Set the 
square to this 

mark, and draw the J inch line at the end of the mortise. 
With the 

T Vmeh bit, 

bore a hole at 

the inside end 

of the mortise, 

boring half 

way through 

from each side 

(see Figs. 71, 

35, and 36), 

and review what is said about boring in Lesson 9. Set 




Fig. 72. Ripping Out Waste Material. 




Fig. 73. Finishing the Sides of the Mortise. 
Compare this figure with the next one. 



80 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



the piece in the vise at an angle and, with the ripsaw, 
saw down on the inside of the lines, leaving a small 
amount of material to smooth with the chisel. 
The piece should be so slanted 
that you begin the cut on the 
side next to you, and when the 
saw has cut entirely across the end 
reverse the piece and saw the other 
side (Fig. 72). By using this 
method it is not necessary to 
watch the line at the back side. 
Continue to reverse the piece as 
often as is necessary to avoid cut- 
ting any on the side away from 

Fig. 74. Finishing y° u - The tenon may be sawed in 
the Mortise. the same manner. Lay the piece 

on the bench-hook and smooth to the center of the 
lines, as shown in Figs. 73, 66, 53 A, and 53 B. Be 
very careful not to go beyond the center of the 
lines, for if you do, the joint will be loose. Use a 
narrow chisel in testing the sides, as in Fig. 75. To 
finish the inside end of the mortise use a f inch 
chisel, as shown in Fig. 76. The sides of the mortise 
may be worked with the piece in position, as in 
Fig. 74. 

After you have the joint properly fitted, cut it 
in two and clamp it as shown in Fig. 77. Notice 
the little block at the end which keeps the clamp 
from hitting the end of the tenon. Use another 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



81 




Fig. 75 Testing the Sides of the Mortise with a Narrow Chisel. 





Fig. 76. Squaring the 
Inner End of the 
Mortise. 



Fig. 77. First Clamp on the Slip 
Mortise and Tenon. 

damp, as shown in Fig. 78, with 
a block against the side of the 
tenon. Next remove the second 
clamp and place it as shown in 



Fig. 79. 



Examine the joint to see if it is tight at 



82 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 78. Second Clamp on 
Slip Mortise and Tenon. 

the clamps in the same 
order, leaving only 
the last clamp on the 
joint while the glue is 
drying. Dress the 
piece to shape and size 
the same as the halved 
corner (Lesson 17). 
Sandpaper carefully 
and finish with two or 
three coats of shellac. 



the sides and end, and 
square at the inside 
corner. If it proves 
to be all correct, re- 
move the clamps and 
apply the glue. When 
the glue has dried until 
it is stringy or cob- 
webby, place the pieces 
together and c 1 a m p 
them as before. Apply 



*§■(? wh^m 



Fig. 79. Third Clamp on the Slip 
Mortise and Tenon. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



83 



LESSON XXII 
Through Mortise and Tenon 
The stock and finished sizes are the same as 
for the halved cross (Lesson 19). 




3 



m 



j s « — -Ik— 4 


'■&>) 


i 



& 



Fig. 80. Through Mortise and Tenon. 



84 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

This joint is made in a manner similar to the 
slip mortise and tenon (Lesson 21). The chief 
difference is that, as the mortise is enclosed on 
all four sides, we cannot use a saw in working it. 
Instead of sawing out the mortise you should bore 
as many holes as can be made half way through 
from each side and then smooth the sides and ends 
with the chisel. (See Figs. 35, 36, 71, 73, 74, 75, 
and 76). This piece should fit together so exactly 
that it will not require gluing. You should do no 
work on either the mortise or tenon after the piece 
has been cut in two. 

Dress the end of the tenon flush with the edge 
of the cross piece by using a plane, as in Lesson 17, 
Fig. 61 If the work is well done the face side 
of the joint will be exactly even when the pieces 
are placed together It must be considered 
a very serious defect if the face surface is not 
even, and you must try diligently to discover the 
place that is incorrect It may happen that you 
have the face-marks turned one each way, or that 
you were careless in drawing the lines, or that you 
did not draw the lines for both mortise and tenon 
at one setting of the gauge. Any of these mistakes 
must be considered quite serious at this time. You 
should now be able to draw lines correctly and 
work to them with considerable accuracy. Per- 
haps you can find the difficulty and yet make the 
joint correct After you have done your best, 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



85 



finish the ends by sawing as explained in Lesson 20. 
Do not plane the sides or use any sandpaper on this 
joint, 



LESSON XXIII 

Frame Mortise and Tenon 

The stock and finished sizes are the same as 
for the halved cross (Lesson 19). 




Nk/ 



f f" 

rkr-1- 1 







-t \ 

■■4 • 













j—1k--\ 


■ ( 


I 


*■/ 




i \ 





Fig. 81 . Frame Mortise and Tenon. 



86 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Lay out and work the frame mortise and tenon 
the same as the through mortise and tenon, except 

that the mortise is smaller 
and near one end, and 
the tenon, after being 
worked to the full width 
of the piece, is gauged to 
1 inch wide and worked 
to that size. Finish both 
mortise and tenon before 
cutting the piece in two. 
After the piece is together 
it is to be wedged by 
inserting a wedge in the 
end of the tenon near the 
outside edge. 

To make the wedge, 
select a bit of straight- 
grained pine about 1 inch, 
long, and split a piece 
from it about J inch wide and J of an inch thick, 
as shown in Fig. 82. Lay this piece on the bench- 
hook with one end against the vertical side and 
taper it as shown in Fig. 83. Turn the piece over 
and taper the other side in the same manner, giving 
the wedge a sharp wide end. Split the end of the 
tenon with a chisel, as shown in Fig. 84, and insert 
the wedge. Drive the wedge until the joint is 
tight, being careful not to drive the wedge in far 




Fig 82. Splitting Material for 
a Wedge. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



87 



enough to split the end of the piece. After a little 
experimenting you will learn that a chisel is by far 




Fig. 83. Making a Wedge. 




Fig. 84. Splitting a Tenon. 

nails are so cheap and 



the best tool to use for 
making wedges of this 
kind. Sometimesfor larger 
joints the wedges are not 
sharpened to so thin an 
edge and, instead of split- 
ting the tenon with the 
chisel, a saw kerf is made 
in it before it is put into 
the mortise. Wedges are 
not used as much now as 
formerly because glue and 
often far better to use 



than the wedges. 

Finish this piece by planing the end of the tenon 
and also the end of the mortised piece which is at 



88 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



the corner. Saw the outer ends, as directed in Lesson 
20. Do not plane or sandpaper the ends or sides. 



LESSON XXIV 
Blind Mortise and Tenon 

The stock and finished sizes for this exercise 
are the same as for the halved cross (Lesson 19). 




i 
i 

i. 



Ik — ^ 

Fig. 85. Blind Mortise and Tenon. 



-*. I 



c^o 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



89 



face edge 



The blind mortise and tenon is worked very 
much like the through mortise and tenon (Lesson 22). 
In the blind mortise and tenon the tenon is shorter 
and cut to length before putting together, and the 
mortise is lined out and worked entirely from the 
The most difficult part of the work is 

to beat or 
work the 
mortise so it 
will be at 
right angles, 
or square, 
with the 
surface. It 
must be also 
of the same 
size at both 
the top and 
bottomends. 
You must 
also guard 

Fig. 86. Testing the Sides of the Blind Mortise. a2 ;ainst bor- 
ing the holes entirely through. To make the holes of 
the proper depth you may count the turns of the bit 
or use a gauge on the bit. For most work it is best 
to depend on counting and thus avoid the bother 
of setting the gauge. The sides of the mortise may 
be tested by holding a chisel against the side, as 
shown in Fig. 86. 




90 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



When both the mortise and tenon are completed, 
draw lines around the center of the piece and saw 
it apart. Insert the tenon and, if it is all right, 
remove it and chamfer the lower end. Next make two 
small wedges and, after splitting the end, insert them 
as shown in Fig. 87. W 7 ith the aid of the hammer 
drive the tenon to place. This is called blind wedg- 
ing, and requires good judgment and experience to 
make the wedges of just the cor- 
rect size, so that the joint will be 
tight when together, and yet not so 
tight that it will not go together. 
The bottom of the mortise should 
be quite smooth where the wedges 
strike it, or the wedges may turn 
to one side and not enter the 
tenon. Sometimes the bottom 
of the mortise is made wider than 
the top, or outer end, to allow 
room for the tenon to expand. 
Finish the ends by sawing, as instructed in 
Lesson 20. Do not plane or sandpaper the sides. 
Leave them with the face marks on, just as they 
were before the piece was cut in two. This is to 
show that your lines were correct, and that the work 
was properly done. 




Fig. 87. Blind Wedg- 
ing the Blind Mortise. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



91 



LESSON XXV 
Single Dovetail 

The stock and finished sizes are the same as for 
the halved cross (Lesson 19). 

Line out the end for the pin with the try-square, 
knife, and gauge. Work it to exact size, being 
careful to keep the edges at the end smooth and of 
correct size. With try-square and knife draw the 








■^e- 


*- /A X 


\ 


(f/' 


*-- -J 4-* 






* _ _ 

i 






r 



Fig. 88. Single Dovetail. 



92 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

lines for the inside end of the mortise, allowing a 
little to be dressed off after the piece has been placed 
together. Draw lines around the center of the piece 
and saw it in two. Do not forget to have two sets 
of face-marks on the piece before it is cut in two, 
for the face-marks are of special importance in 
dovetailing. Be very careful to have the face- 
marks both on the same side even in these simple 
exercises, for unless you do this now you will be 
pretty certain to make serious mistakes when you 
try to make drawers, boxes, etc. 

Set the pin on to the face side of the piece which 
is to receive it, with the inside edge even with the 
line drawn for the inside of the mortise. Draw a 
line at each side of the pin, using a sharp pencil 
or knife. Saw the sides of the mortise, as in Fig. 
72, and finish the mortise with a chisel. A hole 
may be bored at the inside end of the mortise, or 
it may be cut out entirely with a chisel and mallet. 
In case no hole is bored first, cut down from each 
side a little away from the line and, after the piece 
of material has been removed, finish the end and 
sides to the lines. Sometimes the lines made on 
the face side are carried around to the other side 
by using the try-square and tee bevel; but this is 
not the ordinary way, for with a little practice the 
mortise may be worked correctly without drawing 
these lines and thus save much time. In working 
a mortise for a dovetail there is need of consider- 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



93 



able care in keeping the chisel from jamming the 
edges beyond the lines. 

Glue this dovetail together and finish it the 
same as the slip mortise and tenon (Lesson 21). 

LESSON XXVI 
Common Dovetail 
Stock 12J inches long, 4f inches wide, and § inch 
thick. Dress to 4 inches wide and ^f inch thick. 



J 



\ 



< 



\ 



J 



s 






Fig. 89. Common Dovetail. 



94 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Square the ends carefully, testing them both 
from the face side and the face edge. In squaring 
the ends of this piece use the smooth plane as directed 

in squaring the end 
of the 4-inch-wide 
piece in Lesson 29. 
Draw lines around 
each end to mark 
the inner ends of 
both mortises and 
pins. These lines 
should be about -£% 
of an inch farther 
from the ends than 
the thickness of the 
piece, so that there 
will be some material 
to plane off after the joint is glued together. In regular 
hand dovetailing the pins are not laid out by any 
measure, but by the eye unaided. They should have 
the general size and shape indicated by the drawing, 
and should be cut to nearly correct size with a fine rip- 
saw. They should then be finished with a chisel. The 
wide side of the pin is always on the face side of the 
piece, or the side which forms the inside of the 
corner. After the pins are carefully smoothed 
set them on end on the face side of the piece which 
is to receive them and mark around them with a 
sharp pencil or knife, as shown in Fig. 90. Do not 




Fig. 90. Scribing Around the Pins for 
the Mortises. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 95 

use the bit in working these mortises, but work 
them entirely with the chisels. 

Sometimes dovetails are laid out of exact shape 
and size, the pins being marked on both sides and 
ends, and the mortises lined around with square 
and tee bevel after one side has been scribed from 
the pins. Sometimes the mortises are made first 
and the pins scribed from them, as in Fig. 92. In 
common drawer dovetailing the ends of the pins 
and the outside of the mortises are battered down 
with a hammer after the joint is glued. This 
battering holds the joint together while drying and 
helps to fill up any defects in the joint. In our 
practice work it is better to make the joint so per- 
fect that it will not require either gluing or batter- 
ing. If your work is well clone, place the pieces 
together without gluing and plane off the waste 
material at the corner and finish the outer ends as 
you did the halved dovetail in Lesson 20. If your 
piece is not good enough to finish in this manner, 
cut the mortises off, refinish the pins, and try again. 
Should you have to try a third time, cut off the pins, 
refinish the mortises, and scribe a new set of pins 
from them. This form of dovetail is usually used 
at the back end of drawers in fine hand-made furn- 
iture. 



96 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XXVII 
Half Blind Dovetail 

Stock and finished sizes the same as in Lesson 26. 

Lay out and work the pins the same as in Lesson 
26, Fig. 90, except that the narrow edges of the pins 
do not extend through to the back or outer surface, 
about } inch of material being left to conceal the 




Fig. 91. Half Blind Dovetail. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



97 



joint, as shown in Figs. 91 and 92. The leaving of the 
J inch to conceal the joint requires the mortises to 
be made J inch less in length than the thickness of the 
piece which is to receive them. This length must be 

exactly correct before 
putting together, as 
there is no opportunity 
to dress them off after- 
wards, as is the case 
with the common or 
open dovetail. The pins 
may be dressed off after 
the joint has been put 
together, and are there- 
fore left long. This 
extra length may be 
used to batter d o w n 
the same as described in 




Fig. 92. Scribing in the Mortises 
for the Pins. 



after the joint is glued 
Lesson 26. 

Make this joint so perfect that it will not require 
gluing and finish it with two coats of shellac. This 
form of dovetail was used for many years for the 
fronts of drawers, but machine dovetailing has now 
taken its place almost entirely except for expensive 
hand-made work. 



98 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



PART II 

Supplementary Exercises 

The following exercises are not usually given 

to the whole 
class. Some 
pupils who are 
especially 
quick will re- 
quire some 
work in ad- 
dition to that 
given to the 
remainder o f 
the class. 
Others will 
have projects 
which contain 
elements re- 
quiring a study 
of these special 
problems 
These exercises 
should be ex- 
ecuted with 
quite as much 
care and ac- 
of the book. 




Fig. 93. 
curacy as 



Sawing with a Hand Saw. 

those in the body 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



99 



LESSON XXVIII 

Getting Out Stock 

Where there are no power saws it will be necessary 
to get out stock by hand. This will require two 

sawhorses, a 
handsaw and 
a ripsaw. 
The handsaw 
should be 
about 2 6 
inches long 
and have 
about 8 
points to the 
inch. The 
r i p s a w 
should be 
about 28 in- 
ch e s 1 o n*g 
and have 
about 6 
points to the 
inch. 

The gen- 
eral princi- 
ples involved 




Fig. 94. Savring with a Ripsaw. 



in getting 



LOFC, 



100 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



in working with smaller tools on the bench. 



out stock with these large tools are much the same as 

Always 
take such a 
position as will 
allow of seeing a 
right angle at the 
side of the saw. 
Avoid a position 
which will cause 
you to look 
directly down 
upon or over the 
saw. The general 
positions are 
shown in Figs. 93, 
94, and 95. 

For making 
lines on rough 
lumber use a car- 
penter's square 
(Fig. 197) and 
one or two 
straight edges. 
One straight edge 
should be about 
4 feet long, 3 in- 
ches wide, and \ 
inch thick. Another straight edge 8 feet long, 4 
inches wide, and J of an inch thick will be required 




Fig. 95. Sawing with a Try-Square at 
the Side of the Saw. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 101 

where many long pieces are worked. For drawing 
the lines use a carpenter's pencil. 

Calculate carefully all the dimensions, including 
all the allowances for working, and then draw the 




Fig. 96. A Plane Used as a Straight Edge. 

lines carefully and saw to the lines. Each piece 
of rough lumber should be examined carefully be- 
fore laying out, and the lines made with proper 
regard for grain, knots, sap, worm holes, etc. Often 
a small knot, when it can not be cut out, may be 
placed well away from the sides or ends where it 
will do little or no harm. Twisting and bending 
while working are often the result of poor judgment 
in cutting out the stock. A constant watch for 
these points will save much time and material. 



102 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Probably the most common error in getting 
out stock is to work all of a board or plank into one 
sort of stock, when by using a part for one exer- 
cise and leaving the remainder for a different exer- 
cise would give better results and save much extra 
labor and material. In dressing wide stock the 
plane may be used as a straight edge, as shown in 
Fig. 96. 

LESSON XXIX 
Bench-Hook 

Stock — One piece 14J inches long, 4} inches wide, 
and J inch thick; two pieces each 12 J inches long, 
2\ inches wide, and | inch thick. 

Dress the wide piece to 4 inches and as thick as 
it will work. Be quite as careful in planing these 
pieces out of wind and straight as you were in work- 
ing the first piece (Lessons 1 to 4). Draw knife lines 
around one end and saw it off the same as for 
smoothing the end with a chisel. With the smooth 
plane held as shown in Fig. 98, plane carefully 
to the line at the corner next you, but do not 
plane to the opposite corner. When you have 
planed down to the line at the nearest corner, 
either reverse the piece or step to the opposite 
side and plane the end square. Test the end with 
the head of the, try-square against both the face 
side and the face edge. Always place the piece as 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



103 



%**• 



Fig. 97. Bench-Hook 

r;fn 




104 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 98. Planing an End Square 
in the Vise. 



sharp and smooth, but 
if you plane the least 
bit beyond the lines, 
the edge will be rough. 
Therefore, always have 
lines on all sides and 
edges, and stop exact- 
ly at them. If by 
accident you split one 
of the corners you may 
leave this end to be 
rounded and try to 



low down in the vise as 
you can to avoid chat- 
tering. This will hold 
the piece more rigid, 
and consequently there 
will be less liability to 
roughen the edges or 
split the corners. 

If by mistake you 
plane beyond the lines, 
do not try to plane by 
guess, but draw other 
lines on both sides and 
edges. You will notice 
that if you stop at the 
lines the edges will be 




Fig. 



square the other end; but 



99. Setting Compasses on a Rule. 

remember that if you do 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



105 




Fig. 100. Striking a Circle with Compasses. 

not plane entirely across the end the corner will not 
be split. 

After squaring one end set 
the compasses to 2 inches as 
shown in Fig. 99, and place 
one point 12 inches from the 
square end and at the center 
of the width, and strike a semi- 
circle, making the extreme 
length of the piece 14 inches. 
Hold the compasses in striking 
the circle as shown in Fig. 100. 

With the backsaw saw the 
corners off near to the circle. 

... Fig. 101. Chiseling a 

finish the circular end with a Round End 




106 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



chisel (as shown in Fig. 101), using a shearing cut 
as in chiseling the ends of the first piece (Lesson 13). 
Test the circle as shown in Fig. 102. Bore a hole 

at the center of 
the semicircle 
(asshownin the 
drawing, Fig. 
97), with a ^r- 
inch bit. Re- 
member to bore 
frombothsides. 
Dress one of 
the 2\ inch- 
wide pieces to 2 
inches wide and 
T § inch thick 
and saw the 
ends, leaving 
just enough to 
finish with the 
plane, the same 

Fig. 102. Testing a Round End. as the W i d e 

piece which you have just completed. This piece 
may be only lh inches wide, yet it is better to 
have it 2 inches wide. Should you split the 
corners, or for any cause need to reduce it in width, 
you may do so rather than use another piece. 

With the gauge set at \ inch, mark on the edge 
and ends for the chamfer as shown in Fig. 97. 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 107 

With the smooth 
p lane dress the 
corner off to the 
gauge lines, hold- 
ing the plane as 
shown in Fig. 103. 
Place the piece on 
end in the vise, 
having the top 
end of the piece 
as near to the top 




Fig. 103. Planing a Chamfer 

of the bench as 
you can to work 
the chamfer. 
The lower clown 
the piece is the 
less liable t h e 
plane is to chat- 
ter or split the 
corner. With 
the plane held as 
shown in Fig. 
104, plane to the 
lines at the ends. 
The plane is held 
at an angle of 
about 45 de- 
grees, but moved 
parallel with the 




Fig. lOJf.. Planing a Chamfer at the End 



108 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



edge, and not parallel with the length of the plane. 

If the plane 
is in proper 
condition, 
not too much 
set, and held 
properly, the 
corners will 
not split. 

Work the 
second piece 
to 2 inches 




Fig. 105 A. First Step in Locating the Point 
at Which to Set the Compasses. 



wide, xf mcn 
thick, and 12 in- 
ches long. You 
should be able to 
finish the ends 
of this piece very 
nicely with the 
plane. After the 
ends are proper- 
ly squared set 
the compasses to 
1 inch as shown 
in Fig. 99. Find 
the point at 
which to set 
them for mark- 
ing the round 

















Wjfpp^ 


■hHH 






^OH 




.. ' 




," v 


/^agh L 




Jfj .. 3^11 


■ "^S"" 





Fig. 105B. Second Step in Locating the 
Point at Which to Set the Compasses. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



109 




corner (as shown in Figs. 105 A and 105B), and 
scribe quarter-circles at the two corners opposite 
the face edge. Saw the corners off and then 
chisel the surface the same as the round end 
of the wide piece. Test them as in Fig. 102. 

With the gauge 
set at | inch, 
line the corners of 
the edge and ends 
for chamfering as 
shown in Fig. 97, 
plane the chamfer 
at the edge and 
on the straight parts of the ends as shown in Figs. 103 
and 104, and finish the chamfer at the rounded corner 
with the chisel as shown in Fig. 106. The circle 
may be chamfered with the plane, but it is rather 
difficult to do so. In rounding ends and planing 
chamfers on ends where the circle is of large radius, 
it is better to use the plane rather than the chisel. 
Nail the pieces together as directed in Lesson 7. 
This bench-hook should be nice enough to receive 
one coat of shellac. For use in larger work one 
should have a bench-hook of larger size. 



Fig. 106. Chiseling a Chamfer on a Circle. 



110 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XXX 

Rabbeted Joint 

Stock 8J inches long, 4| inches wide, and J inch 
thick. Work the piece to 4 inches wide and as thick 




Fig. 107. Rabbeted Corner. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



111 



and long as it will work. Be careful to have it out of 
wind and the ends correct. In planing the ends 
observe the directions given in Lesson 29. 

Draw the lines for cutting the rabbet, following 
the same method as in lining for the gain at the end 

of the halved 
corner (Lesson 
16). The work- 
ing of the rabbet 
also follows the 
same methods as 
working the 
halved corner. 

Cut the piece 
in two and finish 
Fig. 108. Nailing a Rabbeted Corner. the ends, making 

the model 4 inches long on the outside when com- 
pleted. Sandpaper the pieces, except at the joints, 
ready for shellacing before putting together. Start 
the nails as directed in Lesson 7. Place the rabbeted 
piece in the vise and nail the other piece in place, 
as shown in Fig. 108. For nailing use five lh- 
inch wire brads. Set the brads about ^ of 
an inch below the surface, using a nailset or the 
head of a brad (Figs. 27 and 28). Smooth the 
joint if required, and fill the nail holes with 
putty colored to match the wood. Use the putty 
quite hard and force it well down upon the 
heads of the- brads. After the putty has become 




112 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

hard, smooth it off with sandpaper and finish the 
joint with two coats of shellac. 

This joint is used to a very great extent for the 
front end of cheap drawer sides and for small boxes. 
When used on a box the corner is often rounded back 
to the joint, and it will then finish quite neatly in 
shellac or varnish. 

LESSON XXXI 
Gained and Rabbeted Corner 

The stock and finished sizes are the same for 
this lesson as for Lesson 30. 

The rabbeted end is worked similar to the one 
in Lesson 30. The gain is worked similar to the one 
in Lesson 18. The work on this joint must be well 
executed in order to have it hold properly. After 
the pieces are worked to size and carefully sand- 
papered as directed in Lesson 30, they may be 
glued together or nailed. 

If the joint is to be glued, it will be much stronger 
if the pieces have their end grain properly sized 
before putting together. To size the pieces apply 
glue to the end grain as long as it will soak in, and 
then apply glue to the other parts and put the 
pieces together. If we allow the glue to dry hard, 
and then smooth it off down to the wood before 
applying the glue for putting together, it will make 
the joint hold even better. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



113 



This joint is used on box and drawer corners 
and similar places. This joint, and also the one 




Fig. 109. Gained and Rabbeted Corner. 

shown in Lesson 30, may be made entirely on a 
circular-sawing machine. For this reason it is much 



114 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



used in small shops where they do not have the 
more expensive machinery for dovetailing. 



LESSON XXXII 
Bridle Joint 




Fig. 110". Bridle Joint. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 115 

The stock for this joint is the same, and worked 
the same, as the through mortise and tenon, 
except that the opposite parts are cut away. Gauge 
the same as the through mortise and tenon (Lesson 
22). Determine the width of the gains at each side 
either by superposition as in Lesson 18, or by 
measurement as in Lesson 22. This exercise 
is an excellent test, for if the piece is not worked 
to exact size and all four corners square, the in- 
accuracy will be likely to cause an open joint. Slip 
the piece together and finish the same as the through 
mortise and tenon (Lesson 22). Do not plane the 
sides or use any sandpaper to smooth the joint. 

This joint is very seldom used outside of school. 

LESSON XXXIII 
Haunched Mortise and Tenon 

The stock for this exercise and the finished 
sizes are the same as used in Lesson 19. 

This exercise illustrates a variety of modifica- 
tions of the common mortise and tenon, and, when 
properly understood, should enable one to make 
any of the large variety of modifications. All of 
the irregular-shaped tenons depend upon care in 
selecting the proper order for working the various 
angles and shoulders, and in always keeping a face, 
or definite surface, to line from, and working care- 
fully to the lines at each step. Where a part of 



116 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



the tenon is to be cut away as in Lesson 23, frame 
mortise and tenon, and in this exercise you must 
be especially careful to keep the surface of the tenon 
correct from edge to edge, so that when a part of 
the tenon is cut away you will not lose your cor- 
rect edges. 




Fig. 111. Haunched Mortise and Tenon. 

With these facts in mind you should be able to 
make this exercise from the drawing by reviewing 
Lesson 23. The difference between these exercises 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 117 

is in the leaving of a shoulder on the tenon to fit 
into the groove which extends the entire length of 
the piece that contains the mortise. This arrange- 
ment is common to joints used about paneling. 
The groove is usually worked with a plow; but 
in this case you will work it by drawing gauge lines 
at each edge of the groove and at the ends, and 
remove the waste material with a chisel. 

LESSON XXXIV 
Dowel Joint 

The stock for this exercise is the same size, 
and worked to the same size, as that used in Les- 
son 19. 

It is often better to connect two pieces with 
dowels instead of with mortises and tenons. Dowel- 
ing is used much more at present than formerly, 
and for some lines of work is to be preferred. 

Work the stock to size and carefully square the 
end which is to receive the dowels. Draw a line 
with the gauge at the end which is to receive the 
dowels. This line should be at the center of the 
piece and parallel with the sides. With the knife 
and try-square draw a line on the face of the other 
piece which will exactly coincide with the line drawn 
on the end of the first piece. It is sometimes better 
to lay the pieces in position as they will be when 
the joint is complete, and with the point of the 



118 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Knife blade make a mark on both pieces at the 
same time, as shown in Fig. 113. Next set the gauge 
to the mark on the end, and extend it across the end. 
With the try-square and knife extend the other mark 




Dowel Joint. 

across the face of the other piece. With the gauge 
set at | inch and the head against the face edge, 
draw short lines crossing the other two lines. Set 
the gauge to 1 \ inches and draw two other short lines. 
With the f -inch bit bore a hole at each of the four 
places marked by the crossing of the lines. Be 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



119 



very careful to have the holes center exactly where 
the lines cross. Remember not to bore entirely 
through the piece which has the holes in its face side. 
Bore about 1 J inches into the end. Cut two dowels 
2 inches long from |-inch dowel rod. After plac- 
ing glue on the dowels and in the holes, force the pins 
to the bottom of the short holes either by using a 

hammer or a 
clamp. Then place 
the other piece in 
position and force 
it to place with a 
clamp. Dowels 
and other joints 
which cannot be 
forced together by 
hammering m a y 
sometimes be 
forced together by 
Fig. 113. Locating Holes for Doweling, using clamps. It is 
usual to point the pins alittle. Ifcoldglueisusedallowit 
to become quite dry before putting the pieces together. 
Glue on the end and surface of the pieces will 
help to make a good joint for finishing, although it is 
not likely that it will add much to the strength unless 
the end grain is first sized with glue. (For direc- 
tions for sizing see Lesson 31.) Glued dowels are used 
only when one or both pieces are joined at their ends. 
Dowels should not be used in regular glue joints. 




120 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



LESSON XXXV 




Special Dovetail Joint 

Stock— One piece 8 inches long, 4f inches wiae, 
and J inch thick; one piece 8 inches long, 4} inches 

wide, and J 
inch thick. 

These pieces 
are dressed to 
4 inches wide 
and as thick as 
they will work. 
Be sure that 
they are out of 
wind. 

The forms 
of dovetailing 
shown in Les- 
sons 26 and 27 



require more 
time to make 
than is some- 
times desirable, 
therefore a 
form having 
fewer pins is 
used. You must ever keep in mind that the form, 
number of pins, their size, shape, etc., are subject to 



Fig. 114- Special Dovetail Joint. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 121 

all the variations which may arise from the use of 
various kinds or grades of wood and the places in 
which the joints are to be used. The particular 
form shown in the lesson is only a type to indicate 
the possible variations. These different forms may 
be either open, as shown, or half blind, as shown 
in Lesson 27. The general method of working 
all the forms is the same, and may be understood 
by reviewing Lessons 26 and 27. 

LESSON XXXVI 
Miter Joint 

The stock for this piece and the finished sizes 
are the same as for the halved corner (Lesson 16). 

This form of joint, though often used, is too difficult 
for elementary work except in its most simple form. 

The angle at which the ends are cut is exactly 
the diagonal of a square, and therefore any method 
that will give the diagonal of a square will give the 
line for the miter. The easiest way for the student 
in woodwork to get the correct angle is to draw 
a square at the end of the piece and then draw the 
diagonal as shown in Fig. 116 A. The point A is as 
far from the point C as the point B is from the point 
C, or the distance A C is equal to the width of the 
piece. When several miters are to be cut, the tee 
bevel (Fig. 116 B) may be set to the line A B and the 
other miter lines drawn with it. 



122 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



In making miter-jointed frames, etc., take special 
care to have the face side and face edge straight, 
square, and out of wind, and then be particular to 




^ 

v 


■ 



4 



Common Miter Joint. 



4 4" Fig. 115. 

draw all lines and make all tests from the face side 
or face edge. Saw the miter near the line and 
finish with a plane, as shown in Fig. 117. As the 
cut is not square across the end, the plane may cut 
all from one edge. Holding the plane at an angle, 
as shown in Fig 98, is sometimes necessary to 
avoid splitting at the extreme point. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



123 





tT e 

Fig. 116 A. Fig. 116B. Setting the Tee Bevel. 

As the miter presents end grain, it is usual to 

nail the 
jointrath- 
er than to 
depend 
upon glue. 
If the 
joint is 
well sized 
as de- 

Fig. 117. Planing a Miter in a Vise. Scribed in 

Lesson 31, the glue 
will aid much in hold- 
ing the joint in place. 
If glue is used, before 
applying it start all 
the nails and drive 
them in sufficiently to 
make it easy to bring 
the joint to place after 
the glue is applied. 
Then separate the Fig. 118. Miter J ointGluedandC 'lamped. 




124 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

parts and apply the glue. This joint may be clamped 
as shown in Fig. 118. 

There are many ways of securing the corners 
of frames which are mitered. Some of these methods 
are very simple and easy when one has the special 
tools required to use them. There are some forms 
of special nails or fasteners which may be used by 
any one who is capable of fitting the joint. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



125 



LESSON XXXVII 
Slip Mortise and Miter 

The stock for this joint and the finished sizes 
are the same as for Lesson 19. 




Fig. 119. Slip Mortise and Miter. 

This joint is simply a combination of the joints 
shown in Figs. 70 and 115. By carefully reviewing 
Lessons 21 and 36 you should have no difficulty in 
making this joint. This joint should be thoroughly 



126 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

clamped as shown in Figs. 77, 78, and 79. Place 
some paper between the blocks at the face and 
back of the joint to keep the glue which is forced 
from the joint from sticking the blocks or clamps 
to the joint. 

This is a strong joint for frames, etc., but is not 
often used, because of the time required to make it. 

LESSON XXXVIII 
Glue Joint 

It is often necessary to glue together narrow trips 
or boards to make one wide piece. This is not a very 
difficult operation if one has learned to control the 
plane properly. The first step is to select lumber 
suitable for such work and mark the sides which 
are to be the face of the finished piece. Also mark 
plainly the way of the grain, so that when the pieces 
are together they may all be planed from the same 
direction. (Fig. 120). 

Examine the planes and be certain that they 
are sharr> and not too much rounded, and that they 
will cut a shaving of good width but little thicker 
at the center than at the edges. The cutting edge 
should not be absolutely straight, neither should 
it be much curved. 

Place one piece on edge in the vise and joint the 
edge carefully. Then lay it aside and joint the 
edge of the other piece which is to join the edge 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 127 

first jointed. It is not necessary to use a try-square 
on these edges. They should be at right angles to 
the surface of the piece, yet if they vary a little it 
does not matter so long as they make a level joint, 
and the pieces do not slip sidewise in the clamps. 
In making a glue joint a regular mechanic would 
never think of using a try-square. When you 
think you have the second edge correct, set the 
first piece on it and test with a straight edge, as 
shown in Fig. 120, to see if the pieces will make a 
true surface. Next examine the joint carefully 
from both sides and ends, as shown in Fig. 121. 
Continue to plane and test the joint in this manner 
until it gives a true surface and the edges come in 
perfect contact the entire length. Pressing down 
upon the corners will help to show defective ends. 
Also try wrapping the under board. There should 
not be the slightest opening at the extreme ends 
even if the ends are to be cut off in finishing the 
piece. When the joint is correct there will be a 
peculiar sensation of suction, or adhesion, as you 
gently push or pull the top board on the under one. 
Do not attempt to glue the joint until it is correct 
as shown by each of these tests. Always put the 
pieces into the clamps to see if they are all right 
before applying any glue. 

Probably the most common errors in making 
glue joints are to suppose that the joint does not 



128 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



require to be perfectly tight on the under or back side, 
and that dowels may be properly used in such joints. 
If you are to use cold glue for the joint, be care- 
ful to have it sufficiently thin to soak well into the 
joint before putting together. Also have plenty 




Fig. 120. Examining a Glue Joint with a Straight Edge. 

of strong clamps. Allow the glue to become almost 
glazed before clamping the joint. Lay the clamps 
so that the joint will not be in wind, and use a suffi- 
cient number to expel every visible bit of glue as 
seen from the edge. The joint must be, in fact, 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



129 



wood to wood if it is to hold properly. Equal care 
must be taken with hot glue, but less clamping will 




Fig. 121. Examining a Glue Joint. 

suffice to expel the surplus glue. In using hot 
glue you must be certain that everything is ready 



130 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

for clamping before applying the glue. The clamps 
should all be in position and adjusted, so that the 
pieces may be put in place and the clamps tightened 
with the least possible loss of time. As hot glue 
will not hold if clamped too slowly, so cold glue will 
not hold if clamped too quickly. Considerable 
experience and judgment are required to get the 
best results with either. When properly used 
there is little if any difference in the holding power 
of the two kinds of glue. When the joint is poorly 
made the cold glue will hold better than the hot 
glue. With the inexperienced the additional time 
allowed in clamping the cold glue is quite an ad- 
vantage. When much gluing is to be done, the 
hot glue is to be preferred because the piece may 
be taken from the clamps much sooner, thus saving 
a great deal of time and not requiring so many 
clamps. Care must be taken to keep the cold glue 
from becoming thick. The hot glue soon loses its 
strength by repeated heatings. 

LESSON XXXIX 
Making an Octagon 

This exercise may be made from any defective 
piece of regular stock that will dress to at least 1 
inch square and 1 foot long. 

The piece should be exactly square and the ends 
exactly alike. Draw lines at each corner -f$ of the 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



131 



total distance across the side from each edge. To 
get the distance at which to set the gauge, lay the 
rule on the piece at such an angle as will give 10 







7-2 

Fig. 122. Octagon. 

equal divisions and mark off 3 of the 10 divisions 
as shown at A, Fig. 123. Set the gauge to this dis- 
tance by plac- 
ing the spur in 
the mark made 
by the knife 
point and mov- 
ing the head up 
against the side 
of the piece. 
Draw the 8 
lines, all equal- 
ly distant from 
the four corners 
Draw the lines 




Fig. 123. Marking 3-10 with a Rule. 



without regard to the face-marks, 
lightly, and be careful to leave the lines as you plane 
off the corners. If you wish to have a very nice 
piece of work, use a pencil point instead of the 
spur. (See Fig. 154.) 



132 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



After planing the corners test each side at each 

end to see that 
all are equal. 
If you will 
mark each 
side with an 
you will have 




Planing an Octagon in a Vise. 



X before planing the corners 
less difficulty in 
making the tests. 
On larger pieces 
you can take -fa 
of the distance 
across the side 
instead of ^ 
This is the dis- 
tance used b y 
carpenters in 
squaring timbers 
and is nearer 
the piece may 



off 




Fig. 125. Planing an Octagon Against a 
Bench-Stop. 



the correct distance. In 
be held in the vise (Fig. 
placed against the bench stop (Fig. 125). 



planing, 

124), or 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



133 



LESSON XL 

Making a Cylinder 

Make an octagon as directed in Lesson 39. Be 
certain to have every side and angle correct. Any 
variation in the octagon is quite likely to show in 
the cylinder. Gauging the piece with the eye, 
plane off each corner, making the piece 16 sided. 
Then again plane each corner, making the piece 
32 sided. Continue planing the corners, each time 

doubling the number of 
sides until the piece is 
practically cylindrical. 

With a half sheet of No. 2 
sandpaper, used as shown in 
Fig. 126, remove all plane 
m a r k s. Finish with finer 
grades of paper used in the 
same manner until the piece 
is smooth and cylindrical. 
Usually the piece is simply 
moved endwise in the bent, but not folded or broken, 
paper; but sometimes, when the piece is quite rough, 
it is first revolved and then finished by moving 
endwise. The piece should be often reversed and 
not sanded too much at the ends. When finished 
it should feel quite cylindrical when held in the hand. 




Fig. 126. Sandpapering a 
Cylinder. 



134 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

LESSON XLI 
Making a Pointer 

Dress the two adjoining faces of a piece about 
3 feet long and about f of an inch square. Dress 
the third side, making the piece f of an inch thick 
at the large end, and f of an inch thick at the small 
end. Dress the fourth side, making the piece j of 
an inch square at one end and | of an inch square 
at the other end. 

Lay off the piece at each end and at the middle 
for an octagon, as directed in Lesson 39, Fig. 123. 
Draw gauge lines at both ends and at the center 
about an inch long on all four sides. By the aid of 
these three sets of points or gauge lines plane off 
the corners, making the piece exactly eight-sided. 
Continue planing the corners, as in making the 
cylinder (Lesson 40), until the piece is substantially 
cylindrical. Finish with sandpaper in the same 
manner as you have finished the cylinder. This 
pointer should have two or three coats of shellac. 

LESSON XLII 

Making a Hexagon 

Dress a piece to 1 inch by 1J inches wide. 
Draw lines at the centers of the 1-inch sides. Divide 
the other two sides into four parts and draw lines 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



135 



parallel with the edges, omitting the center lines. 
Dress off the corners to these lines, making 6 equal 
sides. 

This method appears to make the hexagon too 
large on one of its long diameters, but, as the tend- 




Fig. 127. 

ency is to dress off a little too much at the ends of 
this diameter in planing the adjacent sides, the 
result will generally be a substantially correct hex- 
agon. The piece should be carefully tested on all 
sides at each end with the rule. 



136 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

PART 111 
Introduction 

It is not the intention of the author to give in 
this part a catalogue of tools, but rather to illustrate 
and describe such few tools as may be required in 
these exercises. The information given is that 
which is thought to be of value to such pupils in 
elementary woodwork as will use this book. 

There should be in every class room a complete 
catalogue of tools as furnished by some dealer. The 
more enterprising pupils will secure for themselves 
from the dealers such catalogues as will be of use. In 
some of these trade publications will be found the 
latest and most practical information on tools. 

Some dealers will be pleased to furnish their 
retail catalogues free of charge; others have a fixed 
price which they charge except when the catalogue is 
sent out with a bill of tools. Every boy who is suffi- 
ciently enterprising to make good use of a catalogue 
will be able to secure one. 

We wish to advise such boys or parents as will 
purchase individual sets for home use ever to bear 
in mind that nothing is gained by using a large 
variety of tools at the start. A few tools carefully 
selected and carefully and earnestly used will do far 
more good than is possible with a large number of 
tools at the start. The quality of tools should be 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 137 

the best, which means that no fancy or combination 
tools should be purchased. Such tools have their 
place, but that place is not in the kit of the beginner. 
Such appliances as miter boxes, expansion bits, 
molding or fancy planes, chisel grinders, spoke- 
shaves, wood files, and such tools should not be used 
in this grade of work. There are no doubt times 
when such things would be handy, but their presence 
in the boy's kit of tools at this time will do a great 
deal of harm. 



APRON 

Boy's Apron 

For bench aprons for boys, get, according to the 
height of the boy, from 1J to 1J yards of blue and 
white plaid shirting or jumper cloth, or, if plain 
color is preferred, blue or brown denim or overall 
cloth. Fold the piece in the center lengthwise, and 
from one end cut out such a piece at one corner of 
the material as will leave, when the piece is unfolded, 
a bib at the center top eight or ten inches wide. The 
piece cut out should form a curve from the top of 
the bib to the edge of the material at the waist line. 

Hem the bottom of the apron and the top of the 
bib with a wide hem and make a narrow hem around 
the curves. From the material cut away, make a 
strap of such length that when it is fastened at its 
ends to the corners of the bib it will pass easily over 



138 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

the head. Also make straps to fasten at the lower 
ends of the curved portion and tie behind. No 
pockets are required and are a disadvantage, as they 
catch shavings and dirt. Figs. 31, 35, 52, and 86 
show how such aprons appear when in use. 

Girl's Apron 

Any preferred material, such as gingham, calico, 
white or black goods, may be used for the girl's apron. 
Some very much prefer the yard-wide black mercer- 
ized goods, and in this width for medium height 
4J yards will be required. For girls ten to twelve 
years of age 3 yards will ordinarily be sufficient. 

Cut the apron sack front and back, open and 
hem the entire length at the back. Have the 
neck large enough to accommodate the neck dressing. 
The long sleeves should be gathered into tight bands 
fastened at the hand. A broad band fastened on 
the side seam at the waist line and buttoned at the 
seam on the opposite side will hold any fullness 
from falling forward. Buttons and button holes 
should be placed at the top and center of the back 
and at the waist line. No pockets are required 
in this apron. Figs. 71, 98, and 104 show various 
styles of aprons in use. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 139 

Bench 

The woodworker should take pride in keeping 
his bench in order. The bench-board or bench- 
hook should be used to avoid injuring the bench. 
Never should the knife or any other tool be stuck 
in the bench top. In starting nails be careful not 
to drive them through into the bench. Boring 
must be done in the vise or on a board or the bench- 
hook in order to avoid making holes in the bench. 

Once each week the top should be thoroughly 
rubbed with oily waste. The drawers should be 
kept clean and each tool in its place. To avoid 
the necessity of frequent cleaning, do not allow them 
to remain open. The vise must not be overstrained. 
Remember that there is a limit to what it will bear. 

Keep on the bench only such tools as are in use. 
At the close of each recitation put all in order. Do 
not wait until the close of the recitation to put away 
tools that will not be needed again during the reci- 
tation, but when done with them put them away 
at once. 

Do not loan any tools from your bench without 
special permission. Your bench should be securely 
fastened to the floor. If it becomes loose, make a 
report to the instructor. 



140 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Bench Stop 

There are many styles of bench stops from the 
simple square wooden pins to the adjustable and 
reversible iron stops. One style of iron stop is 
shown in Fig. 128. Do not think because the stop 

tis made of wood that it does not matter 
how it is used. The more particular you 
are to keep the stop in order and at the proper 
F Bench 8 -' ne ig nt > the faster you will be able to work. 
Stop. See that the stop is enough above the top 

of the bench to hold firmly, and keep in mind that 
many irons tops have a tendency to split the end of 
the piece. Sometimes when the piece is crossgrained 
the stop will split a corner or edge entirely off. It 
is seldom or never best to use a hammer or mallet 
or anything else with which to drive the piece against 
the stop. It is not necessary for most work that 
the piece stick to the stop. 

In using the adjustable stop be careful not to 
strain the adjusting screw. Turn it but a very 
little either way. You will observe that the stop 
will stay in place even though the adjusting screw 
is tightened but a very little. Be sure to have the 
stop sufficiently low to avoid hitting it with the 
planes. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 141 

Bits 

Of the several kinds of bits the auger bit shown 
in Fig. 129 is best adapted for general use. These 
bits are usually had in sets of thirteen, varying by 
sixteenths in size from one-fourth inch to one inch, 
The boxes usually have a place for a three-six- 
teenths size, and for small work this size is quite 
useful. Auger bits vary greatly in price. The best 
are the cheapest in the end. 

Do not attempt to sharpen your bits until you 
have had personal directions for doing such work. 
A good bit is easily spoiled by a little improper 



Fig. 129. Fig 130. Fig. 131. 

A itger Bit. Forstner Bit. Twist Drill. 

A, Nibs; B, Spur; 
C, Lips. 

filing. Never use a good auger bit when there is 
any liability of its coming in contact with a nail or 
a bit of sand or grit. 

The Forstner bits are exceptionally useful in 
boring end grain. They make smooth holes and 
do not split the wood. Fig. 130 illustrates one of 
these bits. 

There are many other styles of bits. The twist 
drill shown in Fig. 131 is especially useful in repair 
work as it is not injured by coming in contact with 
nails. These drills are quite hard and may be used 
in drilling metal. They are very easily broken and 



142 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

must not be used except where they can be held 
firmly and kept from binding. The work should 
be so firmly held that the drill will not be broken 
in withdrawing from the hole or by the piece moving 
while drilling. 

The twist bit (Fig. 132) is similar to the twist 
drill but not so hard and consequently not so easily 



Fig. 132. Fig. 133. Fig. 134. 

Twist Bit. Gimlet Bit German Bit. 

broken. It is not hard enough to drill nails with- 
out injury. It is useful in boring deep holes for 
screws. 

The gimlet bit is tapering as shown in Fig. 133 
and is a good shape for boring holes for short, blunt 
screws. 

The German bit is also a good bit for boring 

small holes. You see by referring to Fig. 134 that 

this bit has but a single twist and therefore presents 

— •*■- ., -^^ a sharper edge to the wood than the 

^ Fia 135 common gimlet bit. 

Center Bit. Fig. 135 is of a center bit, a very 

cheap bit and a good bit for rough work and for 
boring soft wood. Such bits are easily sharpened 
and are used by many where an auger bit might be 
spoiled. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 143 



Bit-Brace 

The bit-brace, which is used to hold the auger 
bits, screw driver bits, countersinks, etc., consists of 
a chuck Fig. 136, a knob, and a handle, or sweep. 
The chuck is made to grasp the square shank 
M ^^^^ of the bit by revolving 

■B=N, j&^JBLJi) the sleeve which forces 

1 jj the jaws against the bit. 

I j Some bit-braces are 

^ rfUBWfc sy quite expensive, yet the 

Fig. 136. Plain Bit Brace. m0 re simple styles are 
the best for ordinary work. The ratchet brace shown 
in Fig. 137 is convenient for use in places where the 
sweep cannot make an entire revolution, and for bor- 
ing in hard wood and for turning large screws. 

To insert the bit, grasp the sleeve firmly with 
one hand and revolve the brace by grasping the 
sweep handle with the other hand. Revolve 
the brace until 
the shank of the 
bit will pass be- 
tween the jaws, 
allowing the 
ends of the jaws 

to grasp the 

°, , - Fig. 137. Ratchet Bit Brace. 

round part ot 

the bit shank, the square portion passing into the 

chuck out of sight. After the bit has been placed 




144 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

as far into the jaws of the chuck as it will go, revolve 
the sweep in the opposite direction until the bit 
is held firmly. 



Brushes 

For use in shellac and in the common paint 
stains a flat brush one inch wide, costing from 
five to fifteen cents, will be sufficient (Fig. 138). 
M p fc- i gpr Small round brushes having stiff 
^^FigMZ bristles may be used in the glue (Fig. 
Flat Brush. 139), but for most gluing a small 
wooden paddle is sufficient. It is usually best to 
keep the shellac brush in the dish of shellac. The 
handle of the brush should project Bm^^m^gsmmmm 
up through the cover of the* can as pjg m 139. 

shown in Fig 201. Do not use Round Brush, 
sl dish having a tall cover for keeping the brush 
inside. Be very careful always to cover the dish 
when not in use even though it will be again used 
in a very few minutes. 

The brush and dish should be emptied and 
cleaned frequently. The dish used should be small, 
and but a little shellac kept in it at one time. When 
the brush or dish becomes dry and hard it should 
be thoroughly cleaned before using again. It is 
a bad practice to allow the brush to become dry and 
hard by leaving it out of the dish each time after 
using. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



145 



Fig. 140. 
Plain Tanged Firmer Chisel 



Chisels 

The common firmer chisel (Fig. 140), the bevel- 
backed firmer chisel (Fig. 141), and the heavy firmer 
chisel (Fig. 142) represent the general types of hand 

chisels suitable for elemen- 
tary woodwork. Where but 
one style can be had the 
first is preferred. Either style may have either 
tanged blades, as shown in Figs. 140 and 141, or 
socket blades, 
as shown 

Fig: 142 The Fig- 141. Bevel Tanged Firmer Chisel. 

tanged blades are better for small hands and for 
light work. 

Keep the chisels sharp. The angle of the basil 
side should be as small as possible to not break when 

4f*^^^ mmmt ^ mm ^ l ^^^^— B ^^^^ mr i n use - This 
^^^^^■-^^^^^HMHHHIMHHl angle can be 

Fig 1 42. Socket Firmer Chisel . determined 

only by experiment for each person and for the 
various kinds of wood. The cutting edge should 
usually be straight and the basil a smooth, even 
surface, as shown in Fig. 143. 

When the chisel is sharpened on the oil stone, 
a new angle is formed, as shown by the line B in Fig. 
143. This angle also varies with the nature of the 
tool and work. For soft wood the angle is smaller 



146 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




than for hard wood, and usually each time the 
chisel is sharpened on the oilstone the end will 
become more blunt until it is 
necessary to change the angle by 
grinding the tool on the grind- 
stone. 

In whetting the chisel hold it 
firmly as in whetting the plane, 

F Vi%^l%t Fi s- 175 - Move H back and forth 

chisel is ground. B, so that the angle produced will 

Anqle at which the u 1 n 1 rm 

chiseiiswhet. Cjn- be even and flat - The common 
correct shape caused mistake in whetting chisels and 

by carelessness in . ° 

whetting or grinding, planes is to make the end round- 
ing as shown at C, instead of a true flat surface, 
Fig. 143. Should a wire edge develop it may be 
necessary to reverse the chisel, as shown in Fig. 144, 
and holding it 
firmly and flat 
ontheoilstone 
move it for- 
ward, break- 
ing off the 
wire edge. It 
may be necessary to change from the first to the 
second position several times before the wire edge 
will be removed. After using the oilstone the edge 
may be yet further improved by using a leather 
strop, as shown in Fig. 202. 




Fig. I4.4. Removing a Wire Edge. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 147 

One side of the chisel should be kept perfectly 
flat to the cutting edge so that it may rest firmly 
against the surface of the part being worked, as in 
Figs. 39, 40, 43, 53, 73, etc. Should this side become 
rounding, either from wear or from carelessness in 
whetting or stroping, the end must be ground off 
on the grindstone until the surface is straight. 

For directions about grinding chisels, see what 
is said about the grindstone and its use. 

Clamps. 

Probably the old-fashioned wooden hand screws 
shown in Fig. 145 will never be entirely displaced. 
For most work they are better than any other style. 
J| L Care must be taken to keep the jaws 

sJLJL quite or nearly parallel, for if they 
H are not parallel one or both of the 

„. J~ V ' screws may be broken. 

Fig. 145. Wooden . J 

Hand Screw. In using them first tighten the screw 

which is nearest the center of the jaws. This screw is 
called the shoulder screw. The other screw near the 
end of the jaws is called the back or tail screw and is 
tightened last. Be sure that the shoulder screw is 
so tight that when the back screw is tightened the 
jaws will be parallel. Be very particular to see just 
how the jaws are pressing on the work. This may 
sometimes be determined by grasping the back 
screw between the jaws and pulling side wise. The 




148 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

point on which the jaws turn is the point of greatest 
pressure. Sometimes it is necessary to use wedges 
between the work and the clamp. 

The iron clamp shown in Fig. 146 is better for 
some places than the wooden hand screws. These 
clamps are made in a variety of styles. g Some are 
supplied with quick adjusting devices. They all 
require wooden blocks to be placed be- 
tween them and finished surfaces. For 

some work this is quiet troublesome. 
Fig. 146. , . \ . . 

Iron Clamp. For clamping glue joints a very 

strong clamp is necessary. The one shown in Fig. 147 
is a very good style. Common iron bench screws may 
be secured to a similar piece and when properly 
fastened make excellent clamps. Whatever style 
of clamp you are using, re- 
member that it may be 
overstrained -or broken. A Fig. 147. Bar Clamp. 
little experience and use of judgment will enable you 
to know when the strain has reached thelimit of safety. 
Do not be afraid of using too many clamps on work 
that requires great pressure. Some pieces are best 
clamped by using as many clamps as may be placed 
in position on the piece. For directions in clamping 
see Figs. 58, 77, 78, 79, 118. 





ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 149 

Compasses 

Fig. 148 illustrates the common compasses used 
by woodworkers. Fig. 99 shows a method of setting 

them, and Fig. 100 shows how 
to hold them in striking a circle. 
The ordinary difficulty in 
Fig. 148. Compasses. using compasses is to over- 
strain the adjusting screws or to grasp the 
compasses in such a manner that the distance between 
the points is changed by the pressure of the fingers. 
Hold them nearly vertical and revolve them in either 
direction according to the grain of the wood or the 
position of the circle. 

For most work it is better to sharpen the end of 
one leg of the compasses to a rather blunt lound 
point and the end of the other leg to a flat knife- 
like point. 

Do not use compasses to pry with, to make 
holes for screws, or for similar uses. Do not 
strike them on the top end with the hammer or 
use the hammer claws to turn the screws. 

Files 

Two files may be required by the beginner, an 
eight inch flat mill file and a three inch three cor- 
nered taper saw file. 

The mill file (Fig. 149) will be used in sharpening 



150 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

compasses, the gauge spur, and similar work. The 
saw file (Fig. 150) will be used for filing saws. 
Files are so shaped that the teeth cut but 
— ■■■^ ' . HHHI one way, and therefore 
Fig. 149. Mill File. they should be pressed 
against the work only on the forward stroke. When 
learning to use a file, it is better to lift it entirely 
from the work on the return stroke. Always hold 
the file firmly and iiiMillllllMllllllllliiiii i 

move it as nearly the Fig. 150. Taper Saw File. 

entire length as the work will permit. In filing saws 
or any light, thin material, be very careful to have the 
work held firmly. For ordinary work the file is 
moved lengthwise, but sometimes it is moved side- 
wise, as in sharpening the scraper (Fig. 186). 



Gauge 

In selecting a gauge the inexperienced are apt 
to select the more expensive styles, thinking they 
will be able to do better work with the higher priced 
^ tool. Taking every condition into ac- 

p? 151 count, the plain beechwood gauge (Fig. 
Plain Gauge. 151) with a boxwood screw and bar un- 
graduated is the best for the beginner as well as for 
the matured mechanic for most work. This gauge is 
light and strong, and as there is no brass on the face 
of the head, it is very easily planed smooth and 
straight when it wears uneven. It will keep in shape 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 151 

longer than some which have the brass facing. In 
no case should one depend upon the graduations upon 
the gauge-beam, but use the rule as explained in 
Lesson 3. 

In advanced work and for use in projects where 
many mortises of the same width are to be made, 
a mortising gauge may be used to good advantage. 
For all elementary work and for most 



Fig. 152. other work the plain gauge is far better. 

MorHsvng ^ . . r ,-n. 

Gauge. I he mortising gauge (Fig. 152) has two 
spurs on one side at one end so that the lines for both 
sides of a tenon or mortise may ^, r^^^— , 

be drawn at the same time. There L_ ■ L-J j-j { 
is also a single spur at the oppo- *y V 

site side of the beam, that the Fig. 153. Gauge Spur. 
gauge may be used for drawing a single line. 

The spur on all the gauges should be sharpened 
with a file to a sharp, flat, wedge-like point. The 

n point should be a little rounded on the end, 



■V 



making the edge which is in front as the 
gauge is used a little the shorter. When 
Fig. 154. properly sharpened and used it will make a 
Gauge neat, fine line. Fig. 153 indicates the shape 
Bar - of such a spur. The spur should extend at 
least an eighth of an inch from the lower surface 
of the bar, and for most work three-sixteenths of 
an inch is better. It should be out so far that the 
beam of the gauge will never be flat against the 
piece which is being lined. 




152 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

It is sometimes convenient to have a lead pencil 
gauge line. This is easily accomplished by boring 
a hole through the gauge beam near one end and 
inserting the stub of a lead pencil. The pencil must 
have a very blunt point, as shown in Fig. 154. 

When much thin lumber is to be worked, a split- 
ting spur may be placed in the opposite end of the 
beam. Such a spur should split pine 
or basswood boards up to one-fourth 
inch in thickness. The spur may be 
Splitting Spur, made from the broken end of a knife 
blade as shown in Fig. 155. Before trying to split 
a piece, joint it carefully and then use the splitting 
gauge on both sides of the piece. 



Glue 

For elementary work use nothing but the best 
grade of prepared cold glue. Do not use it from 
a large dish or from the can in which it is sold. It 
may be used from a small bottle having a wide 
opening like a paste bottle. This bottle may be 
kept covered with a bit of paper or with the regular 
screw cover. A better plan is to place a small dish 
in a larger dish or box and fill the larger dish to near 
the top of the inner one with plaster of paris. This 
will keep the brush moist and keep the glue from 
drying if a little water is poured On the plaster 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 153 

of paris often enough to keep it moist. The dish 
may have a loose or hinged cover of either wood or 
metal. 

For most purposes in applying the glue a flat 
stick is better than a brush. In case the glue 
becomes too thick add a little water. This should 
be added some time before the glue is to be used 
that it may become well mixed with the glue. 

For directions in applying and using the glue 
see Lesson 16, Fig. 58, Lesson 21, Figs. 77, 78, and 
79. Glue sizing is explained in Lessons 31 and 34 
and making glue joints is explained in Lesson 38. 
If, you have purchased a good quality of glue, do 
not blajne.the gltfe if it does not hold. Go over 
the directions carefully, remembering that the reason 
for the trouble may be in your not following some 
part of the directions which you think of no con- 
sequence, but which may be the whole cause of the 
trouble. 



Grindstone 

After edge tools have been whetted several times 
the cutting edge becomes so blunt that it is necessary 
to remove a considerable portion of the end in order 
to maintain the proper cutting angle. This is 
accomplished by using a grindstone or emery 
grinder suitable for this sort of grinding. Grind- 
stones are not likely to injure the tools if properly 



154 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



supplied with water. Emery wheels are often so 
hard, and run at such a speed that they will spoil 
the tools unless one understands thoroughly how 
to use them. 

Ordinary grindstones are cut from natural 
sandstone. They vary greatly in quality. Some 
are much harder than others. Some are composed 
of particles of sand which are quite hard and sharp 
while others do not have this keen cutting quality. 
All wear more or less uneven by use and it is there- 
fore necessary to be careful in using them. Always 
try to grind down the high places and in grinding 

small tools 
such as 
narrow 
chisels and 
gouges you 
must keep 
them mov- 
ing across 
the face of 
the stone. 
If the 
grindstone 
were in 
perfectcon- 

Fig.156. Grinding. dition there 

would be little trouble about grinding tools. This 
however is almost never the case and you must there- 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 155 

fore learn to grind on grindstones that are very much 
out of order. This is not so difficult a task as you 
may suppose. The best way is to learn to hold 
the tools freehand as shown in Fig. 156. This does 
not require a great amount of practice and when 
once learned will enable you to grind on almost any 
grindstone in a very satisfactory manner. 

Be careful to hold the tools firmly and at the 
proper angle. Grind back from the edge first and finish 
by grinding at the edge until the basil surface is 
straight, flat, and to an edge. The flow of water will 
help to indicate how the stone is cutting. The stone 
or emery wheel should revolve towards the edge of the 
tools as indicated by the arrow. One hand presses 
the tool to the stone and the other hand controls 
the angle. The motion of the stone has a tendency 
to roll the chisel or plane bit in such a manner that 
it will be cut too much at the upper corner. The hand 
which controls the tool must tend to roll it so it will 
tend to cut most at the lower corner. Grind very 
carefully and examine the tool often to see just how 
the stone is grinding. You must not expect to grind 
the edges of chisels, planes, and similar tools sufficient- 
ly fine for use. The grindstone is to remove the large 
quantity of material and give the proper shape and 
angle to the basil surface. The whetstone and 
strop must be used to produce the keen cutting edge. 

The directions for whetting chisels and planes 
are given under the descriptions of these tools. 



156 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Hammer 

Fig. 157 illustrates a plain faced carpenter's ham- 
mer. Fig. 158 illustrates a bell faced carpenter's 

hammer. The 




plain faced ham- 
mers are used on 
ordinary work 
and are better for 

Fig. 157. Plain Faced Hammer. ^ uge Qf begin _ 

riers. The face of the bell faced hammer is rounded 
and is much more difficult to use except when one is 
constantly in practice with it. 

Hammers are made in many styles and sizes. 
The number two, weighing thirteen ounces, is a good 
size for boys. The correct position for using in the 
ordinary work of driving nails is shown in Fig. 25. 
There are times when the handle should be grasped 
quite near the head. 

Although the face of the hammer is of hardened 
steel, yet it may be injured by striking the ends of 
files or other very hard bits of 
metal. The most common injury 
is to the claws by wedging nails 
between them so tightly that the 1 ) 
thin sharp edges of the claws are J^ vro „ 77 „ , 

r & Fig. 158. Bell Faced 

injured. The ends of the claws may Hammer. 

be broken. Sometimes a block is used under the 

hammer head as shown in Fig. 29. Probably the 



Klllg Lilt? eilUS Ul 

^Ill—IBM 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 157 

most needless and foolish injury to hammers is done 
by striking them on the side of the head instead of 
on the face in ordinary hammering. There are 
times when the side of the hammer may be used, 
but it should not be, when the face can be used. 

Should you wish to work in metals do not use 
your carpenter's hammer, but rather use a hammer 

similar to those 
shown in Figs. 
159 and 160. 
These hammers 
have the weight 

Fig. 159. Riveting Hammer. q{ mQ ^ x ^_ 

tributed in a different manner and will give a very 
different effect to the blow. 

If you will carefully watch the effect of the blows 
given by different hammers and the same hammer 
held or used in different ways, you 
will learn why one hammer can be 
made to drive a nail which another 
hammer will bend over and why one 
person can drive a nail into a piece p^jso. Mac 
of hard wood while others can not. ists Hammer. 
These are matters of very much importance which 
can be learned only by careful study, experiment, 
and observation. 




158 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Knife 

Do not try to economize by using a poor knife. 
Only one that may be kept in first class condition 
should be tolerated. The knife should have two 

Fig. 161. Pocket Knife The smaller blade is to 
be used for drawing lines and the point of this blade 
must be kept very sharp. Knives with many 
blades or with tools in their handles should not be 
used. Neither should you try to use a knife having 
a chain attached to the handle. 

Always keep your knife sharp. Fig. 161 illustrates 
a well shaped knife. 

For directions in using the knife see Lessons 
6, 8, 16, 18, 20, 21 and Figs. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 32, 
33, 42, 65, 92, 113. Be very particular to use your 
knife as directed, for very much depends upon mak- 
ing a straight, clean and correct line. 

Lumber 

The materials for these exercises may be of any 
easily worked soft wood. Probably white pine is 
the best. Basswood and whitewood or yellow pop- 
lar are also suitable. Black walnut and mahogany 
are good but expensive. Maple, oak, and ash are 
too hard. Chestnut and hard or yellow pine have 
a grain which is unsuitable for joinery. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 159 

Always examine your material for defects and 
plan your work so that the defects will be cut out 
or covered up. Notice carefully the difference in 
texture of different pieces and the different parts 
of the same piece. 

You will not work enough pieces nor pieces 
large enough to give you very definite information, 
but if you will observe each piece carefully you will 
gather a fund of information which will aid you 
very much later on. Your principal study will be 
to learn how to discover the way of the grain, and 
how to plane and cut joints smoothly in cross grained 
pieces. This you will learn by experiment. Some 
pieces cannot be worked smoothly either way, but 
will generally work much' smoother in one direction 
than in the opposite direction. 

Notice also that certain parts of a piece require 
a much sharper tool than do other parts. Learn 
to distinguish pieces that will work easily and 
smoothly so that you can select the proper stock 
for fine work and also use pieces for rough jobs which 
will not work smoothly. You must learn to make 
these selections without testing them with the tools. 



Nails and Brads 

Very little need be said about brads and nails. 
They are made in such a great variety that it is 
scarcely possible to have use for any form or size 



160 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

which is not for sale by some dealer. Each dealer 
will have a number of styles and sizes suitable for 
his own trade, and from these you should make 
your selection. It is best to become somewhat 
acquainted with what may be purchased in your 
own locality before planning any project that will 
require any hardware beyond the most common 
grades. This caution is nearly as necessary for those 
living in cities as for those living in small towns. 

There are nails with flat heads in very small 
sizes. For some work these are better than brads 
E—7— ■»» as the heads will not pull through soft 
Barbed Nail. wood. Some of these nails are rough 
or barbed on the lower end or the entire length as 
shown in Fig. 162-A. These are desirable for nail- 
ing such w T ork as the shelf border in lesson 12. 

Brads are made in many lengths, and the different 
lengths are made with different size heads and of 
different size wire. The larger sizes ^ ^m^ ^^ 
of this style of nails or brads are I I 
called finishing nails. Nails having t? lip %p$ 
a smaller size of wire than the com- p^ 162B. 
mon wire nails but a similar head Fancy Nails. 
are called box nails. These are very useful in mak- 
ing boxes and in fitting up about the shop. 

Sometimes you will find it a good plan to fasten 
the work together with common brads or nails, and 
then cover these nail heads with the large heads of 
fancy nails like those shown in Fig. 162-B. These 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



161 



fancy nails are made in a very great variety of sizes 
and styles. They may be used in finishing the shelf 
border, lesson 12. 

Nail Sets 

There are several varieties of nail sets, of which 
the cup set and spur set are most common. The 
cup set (Fig. 163 A) has a cup-like cavity at the lower 
end to set over the head of the nail or brad. This 
style is excellent for very small brads. The spur 
set (Fig. 163 B) has a small point at the center of the 





Fig. 163. Nail Set. A — Section of a cup set, enlarged. B — Section 
of a spur set, enlarged. 

lower end. This point is quite small, but sufficiently 
large to keep the set from slipping off the nail head. 
The spur set is better for large brads and nails. Be 
careful to use a set of the proper size to correspond 
with the brad or nail on which it is to be used. The 
method of using the sets is shown in Fig. 27. Fre- 
quently the head of a brad or nail may be used 
instead of a nail set, as shown in Fig. 28. 



162 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Oil Can 

One is apt in selecting an oil can to think that 
the more expensive sorts are the best. This is not 
always the case. For use on the bench, when oil 
is used only for oilstones, a very small and light 
can is better than a large heavy one. A can a little 
larger than those usually furnished with sewing 
machines is a good size. The hole in the spout 
should be quite small. It is far easier to take the 
necessary time to let oil flow from a small opening 
than to wipe up the excess which is sure to flow 
from a large spout with a large opening. Neatness 
and economy in the use of oil will help one to become 
neat and economical in the use of other materials. 
Be very careful in filling the can not to get any dirt 
into it, for a very small bit of dirt may stop the 
spout and cause a good bit of trouble. 

Oilstone 

There are many kinds of oilstones. Some are 
pieces cut from natural rock and some are made 
by pressing a powdered abrasive into a rectangular 
block. Most stones used for sharpening edge tools 
are used with oil and are called oilstones. 

The oil keeps the particles of metal from adher- 
ing to the surface of the stone, or, as we commonly 
say, keeps the surface from glazing over. Do not 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



163 



use too much oil, only enough to keep the surface 
well moistened. Oil should not run over the ends 
or edges. Some oilstones work very much better 
after being well filled or soaked in oil. It is often 
better with a new stone not to wipe the oil off after 
using it. Wipe it only when the surface becomes 
dirty or filled with metal. Lard oil or other animal 
oils are better than mineral oils for use on oil stones. 
Some dealers sell oils especially for use on their oil- 
stones. 

It is a good idea to keep the stone in an iron 
box as shown in Fig. 144, or in a wooden 
box. Some prefer to keep the stone in the 

pasteboard box in 
which it is pur- 
chased, and hold 
it in the vise 
while using it, as 
shown in Fig. 175. 
The surfaces 
of oilstones may 

Fig. I64. Truing the Surface of an Oilstone, be made flat by 

rubbing them on a sheet of sandpaper or emery cloth 
laid on the bench, or on a smooth flat board as shown 
in Fig. 164. If you are careful to rub the plane bits and 
chisels the entire length of the stone, and to sharpen 
knives and small tools near the ends of the stone, it 
will keep in good shape for a long time. Most oilstones 
will break easily and must be handled with care. 




164 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



There are many ways of testing the edges of 
tools to see if they are sharp. Probably the best 

method is 
to use the 
ball of the 
thumb as 
shown in 
Fig. 165. 
Another 
very good 
test is to 
try the 
tool on a 
scrap of 
pine. The 




Testing an Edge with the Thumb. 



Fig. 165 

smoothness and glossiness of the surface of the cut 
will indicate very well the condition of the cutting 
edge. You should learn to test the edge with your 
thumb, because it is quicker and better for most 
purposes. 



Pencil 

A common pencil, such as is used in writing, is 
sufficient for ordinary work. If there is much lin- 
ing to be done on large or rough stock, a carpenter's 
pencil which has a wide flat lead should be used. 
The point need not be as sharp for writing on wood 
as for writing on paper. By pressing quite firmly 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 165 

the writing will be pressed below the surface so that 
in sanding for the second coat of finish the writing 
will not be removed. If you desire to have lines 
which you can erase, use a soft pencil with a blunt 
point. 

For erasing pencil lines use a common pencil 
eraser. Do not attempt to erase pencil lines by 
using sandpaper. 



Planes 

Although there are many sorts and sizes of 
planes, yet for most work two or three planes are 

sufficient. For the exer- 
cises in this book two 
planes are all that are 
necessary. If we do the 
work with only two planes 
Fig. 166 A. Iron Smooth Plane, vve will likely receive 
more benefit and lay a better foundation for future 
work than if we should 
use a larger number of 
planes at the start. 

These two planes are 
the smooth pJane (Fig. Fig. 166B. Iron Jack Plane. 





166 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 167 A 

Smooth Plane. 



166 A) and the jack plane (Fig. 166B). It is not es- 
sential which plane is used at first for planing the first 

piece. You will select the 
one which best suits your 
strength. After you have 
had some practice, you will 
likely prefer the longer or 
jack plane for rough plan- 

II ooden Bottomed Iron. ■ & I 

ing, and the smooth plane 
for finishing and planing ends and miters. To do 
nice work on long pieces the jack plane should be set 
fine and used in- 
stead of the 
smooth plane. 
As you become 
more skilled in 
the use of the 

i '-{-{Fig. 167B. Wooden Bottomed Iron Jack Plane. 

planes, you will d 

keep them ground nearer straight across, and will 
change the set more often to accommodate them to 
the various kinds of work. 

The wooden planes (Figs. 168 and 170) have been 
nearly displaced by the iron planes. The wooden 
bottom iron planes (Figs. 167A and 167B) are pre- 
ferred by many workmen for use on soft wood. The 
beginner will undoubtedly have better success with 
the full iron plane. The iron planes are used rather 
because they are more easily adjusted and more easily 
kept in order than because they are capable of giving 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



167 



any better results on ordinary work. Fig. 168 shows 
the proper position for holding the wooden jack plane. 




Fig. 168. Using the Wooden Jack Plane 



168 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Adjusting the Planes 

There are various ways of adjusting iron planes. 
To make the plane cut a thicker or thinner shaving 
the milled thumb-screw A (Fig. 169) is turned. The 

proper way to 
turn it must 
be learned by 
experiment, 
as it is not 
t urned the 
same way in 
different 
styles of 
planes. Re- 
member that 
there is often 
a considerable 
lost motion in 
the screw and 
lever, so that 
the screw 

Fig 169. Sighting the Bottom of the Iron Plane. m u s t be 

turned a little before it will have any effect in 
changing the thickness of the shaving. 

In your first experiments at setting the plane, 
turn the screw so that the plane will not cut at all 
and then turn it in the opposite direction, testing 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 169 

it on a bit of waste material to see when it is cutting 
properly. Turn the screw but a little at a time, 
testing it often on the piece of waste and also each 




Fig. 170. Sighting ilie Bottom of the Wooden Plane. 

time hold it as shown at Fig. 169 or 170, sighting 
lengthwise of the bottom or sole of the plane. You 
will soon be able to see how much the cutting edge 



170 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

projects from the surface so that you can set the 

plane without using the piece of wood for testing it. 

As soon as the plane cuts at all look carefully 




Fig. 171. Withdrawing the Plane Iron of the Wooden Plane. 

to see whether it is cutting the shaving at the center 
or near one edge. If the shaving does not come 
up at the center of the plane, move the lever B 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



171 



(Fig. 169) sidewise until it does. If there is no lever 
for moving the bit sidewise you must strike the 
side of the bit near the top end with a hammer as 
in adjusting the wooden plane (Fig. 170). 

Sometimes the bit does not stay in place after being 
adjusted. This may be caused by carelessness in 
handling, or the screw (Fig. 173 S) may be loose. This 
screw should be so adjusted that when the cam lever 
(Fig. 173) is down the bit will be held firmly in place. 
The wooden bottom iron planes are adjusted 
in the same manner as the iron planes. The wooden 
planes are adjusted entirely with a hammer. To 

withdraw 
the iron, the 
plane is 
struck with a 
hammer on 
the top near 
the front end 
as shown in 
Fig. 172. Jointing the Bottom of a Wooden Plane. Fig. 171. 

Strike the iron a light blow on the upper end to in- 
crease the thickness of the shaving. When the bottom 
of the wooden plane or the wooden-bottom iron 
plane becomes worn out of true, draw the iron well 
out of the way and dress the bottom of the plane, 
as shown in Fig. 172. This figure shows an iron 
jointer plane in use, but the work may be well done 
by using a good iron jack plane. 




172 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Sharpening Planes 

Your planes should be sharp and ready for use 
when you get them and you should become quite 
familiar with these tools and be able to set them 
nicely before attempting to 
sharpen them in any manner. 
The first step in sharpen- 
ing is to learn to whet the 
bits on the oilstone. To re- 
move the bit, grasp the cam 
lever as shown in Fig. 173 
with the thumb and finger 
and lift it upwards. This 
will loosen the bit. Be very 
careful to see and remember 
just how every part appears 
when in proper position. 
Lift the loosened parts from 
Fig. 173. Lining the Cam the plane and with a screw- 

Lever. o — The screw . 

which holds the cap and driver loosen the screw as 

iron in place. ghown ^ Mg m Either 

remove the cap iron or slide it to the top end 
out of the way. 

Observe carefully the angle at which the iron 
has been ground and hold it on the oilstone so that 
the oilstone will make a slightly blunter angle, as 
shown in Fig. 143, A being the angle at which the 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



173 



Fig. 11 If.. Loosening 
the Cap Screw 

erly be used and 
which by practice 
you will discover. 
You should use 
only a simple for- 
ward and back- 
ward movement 
at first. The es- 
sential points 
which must ever 
be kept in mind 




iron was ground, and B the 
angle at which the iron is to 
be whetted. Use a sufficient 
amount of oil on the stone 
to cause it to cut freely. 
I Rub the bit forwards and 
backwards, keeping it at 
the same angle. Hold the 
bit very firm as shown in Fig. 
175. As you become more 
accustomed to using the oil- 
stone you will give the tools 
a somewhat circular motion, 
varying the amount accor- 
ding to circumstances. 
There are a great variety 
of motions which may prop- 




Fig. 175. Whetting a Plane Bit. A chisel 
is whetted in a similar manner. 



174 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

are to use the stone over its entire surface so that it will 
wear down evenly, and to keep the plane bit at the 
sa-me angle during the entire process of whetting 
so that the surface will be definite and not rounded 
in the least as examined from the edge, the same as 
the chisel (Fig. 143, B and C). 

There is always a tendency to whet the corners 
short, making the cutting edge rounding as shown 
in Fig. 176. This will do no harm if 
not too much. In fact, for beginners 
it is better to have at least one of the 
1 planes, usually the jack plane, quite 
Rounded End of a rounding so that it will cut only a 
Plane Iron. narrow shaving and consequently 
not require so much strength to use it. As you 
become more skillful in using the planes you may 
whet them more nearly straight across until they 
are almost straight except very near the corners. 

After bringing the bit to an edge it is often 
necessary to turn the bit over and lay it flat on 
the oilstone to remove the wire edge, as in 
sharpening the chisel (Fig. 144). Generally it is 
necessary to reverse the bit several times before 
the rough edge will come off. After the wire edge 
has been removed the bit should be stropped on a 
bit of leather as the chisel is stropped (Fig. 202). 

Replace the cap iron, bringing it to about 
one thirty-second of an inch from the cutting 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 175 

edge, and tighten the screw. Place the parts in the 
plane and adjust them as described on page 168. 
After the plane bits have been whetted several 
times they should be ground as described in the 
general directions for grinding under the topic 
Grindstone. 

Putty 

Good putty consists of whiting and linseed oil. 
By using white lead with common putty it will 
adhere better and become harder. Common white 
putty may be colored with ordinary colors to match 
the paint or stain which is being used. A little 
putty kept in a tightly covered jelly tumbler is often 
quite handy. As putty becomes hard by standing, 
some persons prefer to keep a supply of whiting 
and oil and make their own putty a little at a time 
as they use it. The hand mixed putty is not usually 
as good as the good grades of machine mixed. Do 
not use putty in any holes that can be plugged with 
wood. If the putty is too soft, wrap what you wish 
to use at one time in paper and in a few hours it 
will be much harder. 

Rule 

Probably no part of the shop equipment is so 
often improperly selected as the pocket rules. These 
should be selected for accuracy, convenience, and 



176 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

to familiarize oneself with the rule which he is 
likely to use after leaving school. For this reason 
all two-foot, two-fold rules are unsuitable. Of the 
four-fold rules the number 84 is probably the best, 
price considered. In no case use the ten-cent style, 
or one having neither edge brass-bound. 

Be very particular to use the rule exactly as 
directed. Many of the directions given may appear 
wrong or needless to those not familiar with practical 
work, but nevertheless every direction given is the 
result of much experiment and use. Whenever 
possible we should use the rulings away from the 
end, as shown in Fig. 17. The corners not only soon 
become incorrect from wear but very often the grad- 
uations at the extreme ends are not made correctly. 

The number 84 rule and also the number 62 rule 
(Fig. 177) have the inches divided into eighths, six- 
teenths, tenths, and 



^.^p.C^pi^Mfe^!^ 



fe^ ^ 11 ^ twelfths. These are a 



Fig. 177. Pocket Rule. The No. 84 very useful variety of 

Ride is the same as this one except graduations and VOU 
that only the outside edges are brass & > J 

bound. ' should accustom your- 

self always to use the rule in the same manner and then 
there will arise no trouble from getting the various 
scales confused. 

Hold the rule, opened to one foot long, in the 
right hand as shown in Figs 14 and 17, when using 
either eighths or sixteenths. The tenths and 
twelfths are on inside edges and therefore we never 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 177 

use them by mistake if the rule is held in this manner. 
When opened to two feet long, if we always hold the 
rule on edge, the center hinge up, we are sure to use 
only eighths or sixteenths. To use the tenths or 
twelfths we must place the rule in an uncommon 
position. 

The drafting scales marked one fourth, one half, 
etc., may be used to take the dimensions from scale 
drawings. The even inches are measured with the 
rule in the ordinary manner. The fractions of an 
inch are obtained by setting the compasses to the 
distance on the drawing and then applying them 
to the scale as in setting them, as shown in Fig. 99. 

The proper method of using the rule in laying 
off given spaces is shown in Figs. 18, 123. 

Sandpaper 

Sandpaper is the name commonly applied to a 
tough paper coated with ground flint. Glue is used 
to hold the flint to the surface of the paper. There 
is considerable difference in the cutting and weaVing 
qualities of the different brands of sandpaper. 

For ordinary work the grades 0, J, 1, 1}, are 
sufficient. For very fine work 00 may be used. 
No. 2 may be used in rounding corners, edges, etc. 
Such places should be made quite smooth with the 
edge tools before using the sandpaper. If your work 
is to be inspected by an instructor do not use any 



178 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

sandpaper until the piece has been examined and 
passed. For nearly all small work it is best to hold 
the paper without a block as shown in Figs. 46 and 
47. 

On large surfaces and to give a smooth finish to 
corners and rounded edges a block may be used. 

Plane a block to about 4 J inches long by 2J inches 
wide and J inch thick. Keep this block for use 
when required. Blocks of other sizes and shapes 
may be required for special work. These may be 
of almost any size or shape but should always be 
carefully made and the paper very carefully folded 
around them. Never glue or nail the paper to the 
block. Fold it so that it may be changed in posi- 
tion until the entire surface has been used. Remem- 
ber that paper which has been used is often better 
than a fresh piece, and therefore do not throw any 
paper away until it has been entirely worn out. 

Sandpaper often becomes too dry to work prop- 
erly. If kept where it will not dry out nor be- 
come too damp it will work much better. It may 
be dampened by sprinkling a little water between 
the sheets and keeping them pressed tightly together 
for a few days. Always tear the paper carefully 
with a saw as shown in Fig. 44. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



179 




Fig. 1 78. The common grades 
of both hand saws and rip 
saws are made this shape. 




Saws 

The saws used in elementary wood work are the 
hand saw, the rip saw, Figs. 178 and 179, and the 
back saw, Fig. 180. For special work we sometimes 

require the compass saw, Fig. 
181. The proper methods of 
using the saws are shown in 
Figs. 37, 38, 72, 93, 94, 95. 
In using any saw in working 
around a curve the saw should work squarely through 
the piece, or at right am 
to the surface in both direct- 
ions. This applies particular- 
ly to the compass saw. 

The blades of saws are 
easily rusted and therefore you should not touch 

the blades with your 

hands. If from any 

cause the surface of 

the blade is mois- 

Fig. iso. Back Saw. tened, or if they are 

used in a damp room, they should be carefully wiped 

and the surface coated with 

vaseline or oil. Vaseline is 

probably the best anti-rust Fig. 181. Compass Saw 

material easily applied for keeping not only saws but 
all other bright tools from rusting. 



Fig. 179. Some of the better 
grades of saws are made 
this shape 




180 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

When the saw refuses to work freely it should 
be put in order. The kinking of the blade is a ser- 
ious injury to the saw and therefore take no chances 
When the saw sticks or binds in the kerf, find 
where the difficulty is and correct it or stop sawing 
entirely and wait for assistance. Of all the tools 
used in working wood, none work so freely as saws 
when in order and properly used and none so badly 
when out of order. 

Fig. 182 indicates the forms of teeth usually 

given to small saws. A shows the teeth of a hand 

Hi U saw anc ^ ^ those of a rip saw. 

The shapes shown are only to 

Fig. 182. Teeth of Saw*, illustrate the general plan of 

A, Hand Saw. B, Rip Saw. the two kinds of saws. This 

is especially true of the hand saw which is filed at 

many different angles to suit it to various kinds of 

wood and different grades of work. 

The fitting of saws in the best manner is too 
difficult a task for even many of those who are con- 
stantly using them. The novice in woodworking 
should not attempt to fit his own saws. After he 
has become quite familiar with his saws and knows 
quite well how they should work when in proper 
shape, he may begin by pointing the teeth a very 
little when they become dull. The first thing to 
be learned is that there is great danger of filing too 
much and that too much filing is quite as bad as no 
filing at all. After a time he may attempt to joint 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 181 

and file and finally to joint and file and set his saws. 

Fig. 183 shows a good clamp for holding saws 

while filing them. The boards should be a little 




Fig. 183. Saw Clamp. 

hollowed on the inside so that they will press firmly 
against the sides of the saw near the teeth. The 
saw should be held as low down in the clamp as will 
permit of holding the file at the proper angle. There 
are many kinds of saw clamps made of iron. These 
are good but not essential when one has but two 
or three saws to keep in order. It is very essential • 
that a clamp of some kind be used, for if the saw is 
not held very firmly the files will wear out rapidly 
and it will be very difficult to make the teeth of the 
correct shape. 




182 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Saw Set 

The saw set, shown in Fig. 184, is for setting the 
teeth of saws so they will work more easily. This 
is not a very difficult tool to use except that it 
requires considerable experience to determine how 

much set should be given a 

saw to cause it to work to the 

best advantage. 

You should proceed with 

considerable care in order not 
to crush the teeth or kink the blade at the base of 
the teeth. There is also danger of breaking the 
teeth. The less set a saw has the better, pro- 
vided it works freely. Some saws are made so that 
they do not require any set. This is generally true 
of the back saws and other saws which are thin on 
the back. 

Scraper 

For cleaning off thick bits of finish and for 
smoothing cross grained pieces a scraper is required. 

One may be made from a piece of an r 1 

old or broken saw blade. Various sizes „. 10K 

Fig. 185. 

and shapes may be purchased. They Scraper Bur. 
may be rectangular in outline or of any other shape 
required to fit the work. For the present work a 
small rectangular scraper is sufficient. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



183 




Fig. 186. Drawftling a Scrape, 



The cutting or scraping is done by a very fine 

edge or bur which is nearly at a right angle to the 

surface of the scraper. 
This is shown very 
much enlarged in Fig. 
185. To produce this 
bur the edge of the 
scraper is first draw filed 
as shown in Fig. 186. 

The draw filing is to make the edge square and 

straight except that 

each end is 

rounded a little. For 

some work the edge 

is curved the entire 

length. After draw 

filing,lay the scraper Fi 3- 187 - La v in ^ the Bur - 

flat on the bench and rub the edge several times 
y — [ the entire length with the chisel, as shown 
in Fig. 187. The chisel is held nearly, 
but not 




Fig. 188. 
Bur Flat. 



quite, flat on the 
scraper. This 
smooths the edge 
and forces a bit of 
metal out as indi- 
cated in Fig. 188. 
Next change the 
chisel as shown in 




Fig. 189. Raising a Bur. 



184 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Fig. 189 and draw it towards you, using all the force 
you can. This will turn the bur as shown in Fig. 
185. You can turn a bur on but one edge or on 

each side of all the 
edges, and if you 
are careful in us- 
ing the scraper 
you will not cut 
your fingers on the 
edges. A little 
soapy water on 
the chisel will 
cause it to work 




ing a ocrapcr. 



Fig. 190. 

better and 
avoid tearing 
off the bur. 

Always hold 
the scraper 
firmly and as 
near perpen- 
dicular to the 
surface as the 
bur will cut. 
Remember 

that W he n Fig. 191. Pulling a Scraper. 

properly sharpened and used the scraper will cut off 
shavings, and therefore do not use it when it is so 
dull that it removes only dust. 



^^ 




J^^V 


1^^. 


T& f 






w -'4 




mm 


^^mmmmm 






ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 185 

The scraper is usually held in one hand for scrap- 
ing thick places on finish as shown in Fig. 49. For 
finishing rough places on wood it is held by both 
hands, as shown in Figs. 190 and 191. Whether 
the scraper should be pushed from you or 
pulled towards you depends upon the 
Fig. 192. nature of the work and the strength of 

Swan Neck , , ^ in 

Cabinet your hands. Do not use any handle or 
Scraper, holder while scraping ordinary small work. 
Be careful to hold the scraper so that it will cut at 
the center of the piece and not round the surface. 
Change the position or direction of the stroke sufficient- 
ly often to avoid following the defects in the surface. 
Be careful not to scrape out the soft places and leave 
the hard grain above the remainder of the surface. 
For working in hollows a scraper like the one shown 
in Fig. 192 may be used. 

It is nearly always best to go over a surface with 
the smooth plane before using the scraper. Only 
on a very cross grained surface should one try to 
finish with the scraper directly from the planing 
machine. Some machines plane so smooth that 
the surface appears to be perfectly smooth except 
to the experienced eye, yet unless the hand plane is 
used the scraper will not be likely to remove the 
roughness so that it will not show through the finish. 



186 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Screw Driver 

Perhaps the most abused of all tools is the screw 
driver. There are many forms both for bit stock 

iMMBE r<i and for hand use. Those for the bit 

F %racf- S<£Z ^ock, Fig. 193, should be of good quality 
Driver. an d well sharpened. In hand screw 

drivers one may get any style or quality desired. 
One of the best forms is shown in Fig. 194. 

The proper form for the end is a straight even 
taper from the extreme point to the largest part 
of the lower end as mimi m 




shown in Fig. 195. Fig. 194. Hand Screw Driver. 

Never stub the end of a large screw driver to 
make it fit small screws. Nor file a shoulder as 
shown in Fig. 196. This shoulder not only 
does it no good but tends to cause the 
corner of the blade to break more easily 
than it would if there were no shoulder at 
this point. A good screw driver properly 
Fig~i95. sharpened, if of the proper size for the 
E fr °ily screw, will invariably break the head of 
Sharpened the screw before being broken. 
DHver. You should have different sizes 

of screw drivers so that the ends will fit 
tightly the slots of the screw heads. For 
elementary work the simple plain tools properly 
are the best. The various forms of spiral Sh( £P™ ed 
and ratchet screw drivers are excellent Driver. 




Fig. 196. 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



187 



for some purposes, but should not be used until 
one has become quite familiar with tools in general. 



Shellac and Alcohol 

Use only the best white shellac in grain alcohol. 
Get this already for use if you can and avoid the 
trouble of fixing it. Be careful to get only that 
which is fresh, and which is made of good materials 
and properly mixed. 

Good white shellac should dissolve in grain 
alcohol at the ordinary temperature of the work 
room. The proportions are best determined by 
experiment. The thicker the better, providing 
you are able to get a smooth finish. At first you 
will need to use it quite thin. Keep the bottle of 
shellac tightly corked, as the alcohol 
evaporates very rapidly. Fig. 201 
illustrates a suitable dish from which 
to use the shellac. It may be covered 
quite tightly when not in use, and 
there is a wire across it on which to 
wipe the brush. 

Very fine finishes may be made 
entirely of shellac, but for elementary 
work it is not usually best to attempt 
more than to simply apply thin coat- 
ings, of shellac and rub the surface carefully to a 
dead smooth finish after each coating. The rub- 




Fig.201. Dish for 
Shellac. 



188 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

bing may be done with fine sandpaper or with pumice 
stone and oil or water. Be very careful to rub the 
finish evenly as directed in Lesson 15. Remember 
that although shellac is probably the easiest finish 
for the beginner to use, it requires considerable 
judgment and patience to use it successfully. 

Stains, Paint, etc. 

The exercises may be stained or varnished or 
finished in shellac. There are many sorts of prepared 
stains which give a very serviceable finish. These 
may be had, with directions for use, of all dealers in 
paints and varnishes. 

A very handy and cheap method of coloring soft 
woods is to apply a thin coat of any color desired 
and wipe off with a cloth until the grain of the wood 
shows through the paint. The common colors 
ground in oil and thinned with turpentine are used 
for this purpose. After the stain has dried the piece 
may be finished with a coat of furniture wax or a 
coat of shellac or varnish. 

Strop 

Do not depend upon the oilstone to give a per- 
fect edge to either the chisels or the plane bits. It 
is nearly always best to finish sharpening the edge 
tools on a leather strop. Do not use the strop too 
much. The tendency is to round the edge, and this 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



189 



should not be clone. A very few strokes should be 
sufficient to give the tool a keen edge. In stropping 
tools the motion is the reverse of what it is in whet- 

ting them. 
The tool is 
drawn as in- 
dicated by the 
arrow in Fig. 
202 and en- 
tirely lifted 
from the strop 
on the return 
stroke. 

The expen- 

Fig. 202. Stropping Tools. sive strops 

such as are used in sharpening razors are not re- 
quired for this work. A strop may be made from 
almost any bit of leather two or three inches wide 
and eight to twelve inches long. With the scraper 
Fig. 191, clean the surface of a piece of heavy belt- 
ing and you have an ideal strop for tools. Do not 
use any powder or other preparation on the stfop 
to make it cut rapidly. 




190 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Steel Square 

The carpenter's steel square (Fig. 197) is required 
by the young woodworker when 
cutting up stock, setting the tee 
bevel and for testing large pieces 
of work. The blades may also be 
used as straight edges. The small 
steel square with a 12 inch blade 
is very useful for small work. 
Do not be content to test one 
corner of a chair or frame, but 
apply the square in a variety 
of positions whenever possible. ^fs^ rfCflrpenF 



Try-square 

There are several forms of try-squares, some of 
which are shown in Figs. 198, 199, and 200. The 
method of using try-squares is shown in Figs. 4, 12, 
19, 20, 21, 22, EjgvYTTTY* 




— m 19, 20, 21, 22, |? 

_____a 23, 32, 33, 36, I | 

42, 55, 56, 57, II 

59, 60, 62, and £ 

Fig. 198. A Good 95. All try- Fig. 199. A Substantial 

Cheap Try-Square, g n n a r e S are ^ ron Try-Square. 

liable to be injured by rough usage. Do not use them 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 191 

for hammering or prying. Be careful not to drop 

thorn upon the floor or bench. In testing edges, lift 

and lower the square at several 

points along the edge rather than 

slide it the entire length of the 

piece. Always make a variety of 

%Ze £?JZ tests if Practical. Be careful to test 

laid head and is pieces to their extreme limits, such 

probably the best . 

try-square for use. as the extreme ends and edges. 

Should the square be bruised or sprung out of 

true it is not a difficult matter to true it by using 

the eight-inch file and testing it with the steel square. 




Tee Bevel 

Fig. 203 illustrates the common tee bevel. In 
this style the blade is held in position by the thumb 
screw at the end of the handle. The 
screw on which the blade slides some- 
times requires adjusting in order that 
the thumb screw may hold properly. F - ^ 03 
While adjusting the blade it should Tee Bevel. 
be just loose enough to move freely but not so loose 
that it will move without some force. 

There are many ways of determining the angle 
at which to set the blade. Probably the best method 



iy tne tnumD 



192 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 




Fig. 204.A. Setting a Tee Bevel. 



for the inexperienced is to first draw a line 

of the required angle 
as in Fig. 116. An- 
other method is to set 
the blade by the car- 
penter's steel square by 
laying the head against 
one edge and, for a 
square miter, adjust- 
ing the blade until its 
edge is equally distant 
from the corner of the 
square on both the 
body and the tongue. The head may be placed as 
shown in Fig. 204A or 204B. You may have at hand 
the triangles used in drafting. These are excellent 
standards for use in setting the tee bevel to any of 
the angles 
found on 
them. 

There are 
many other 
ways of get- 
ting angles 
and setting 
the tee bevel, Fig. ®°4 B - Settin 9 a Tee Bevel 

but the above will be found sufficient for all ordi- 
nary work. After the blade has been set at the 
desired angle it is used very much as the try-square 
is used as shown in Figs. 19. 20, 32, 33. 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 193 



Varnish 

There are a great many varieties and grades of 
varnish. Each has its particular use. Those which 
give the better grades of finish require in their use 
considerable skill and experience. We cannot ad- 
vise the use of varnish until one has become quite 
expert in the use of shellac. 

Some "flowing" varnishes give fine finishes 
without any polishing. Some varnishes are made 
to be ground clown to a smooth surface after drying. 
These are called rubbing varnishes. Some give 
a good cheap finish by having the articles dipped 
in them. Should you decide to use varnish, get it 
of a reliable dealer who will sell you the grade and 
kind suitable for your work. 

The one point of great importance in all varnish- 
ing is that the surface to be varnished must be per- 
fectly polished before any finish is applied if we are 
to have a proper finish. Use the scraper and sand- 
paper thoroughly, and do not forget that all defects 
and especially machine marks will show much more 
after the varnishing than before. 



194 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



Vise 

The vise should not be used to avoid the proper 
handling of the edge tools and the saws. Seldom, 

if ever, should 
any piece be 
held in the 
vise while us- 
ing either a 
hand saw or 
a back saw. 
A good me- 
chanic cannot 
use a hand 
saw or a back 

Fig. 205. Ripping in the Vise. saw SO well 

with the piece of work held in the vise as when 
it is held on a bench-hook, and it is useless for the 
beginner to attempt to do good work in this manner. 
You may succeed in cutting off a piece of wood, but 
you will neither have done a good job nor have learned 
anything of value. If you will not use the vise 
for such work you will not only soon be able 
to do more work, but you will be able to do better 
work and will also be learning the proper method 
of working. 

When a piece is to be ripped it should be held 
in the vise, unless it is too large, and then it 




ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



195 



should be held upon the sawhorses as shown in 
Fig. 94. If the piece is too wide to be held as shown in 
Fig. 72, it may be held as shown in Figs. 205 and 206. 




Fig. 206. Ripping in the Vise. Finishing. 

The jaws of the vise should be of wood or lined 
with wood, and you should be very careful not to 
injure them with the tools. Also be careful not to 
overstrain the vise either by turning the screw too 
tightly or by placing the piece which is being held 
too near to one corner or edge of the jaws. It is 
sometimes a good idea 
with some vises to 
place a piece of waste 
material on the end or 
side of the jaws op- 
posite to the work as 

shown in Fig. 207. Fig. 207. A Block in the Vise to 

Hold it Square. 




196 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Proper methods of holding work are shown in 
Figs. 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 61, 69, 71, 98, 103, 108, 117, 
121, and 124. 

The working of the soft wood joints should not 
be done in the vise but on the bench-hook, as directed 
in the lessons. When the work is in hard wood 
and much chiseling is required, the vise may be used, 
but not otherwise. Do not undertake to work hard 
wood until you have learned to handle your tools 
properly on soft wood, or you will likely not learn 
to do your work properly at all. 

There are many styles of vises. The one shown 
in many of the illustrations represents a large num- 
ber of styles of " quick acting" vises of more or less 
value. For the beginner there is no quick acting 
vise equal to the simple but old style wooden vise 
with an iron screw. These wooden vises may be 
seen in use by many woodworkers and especially 
by carpenters. 



Wax 

There are many varieties and grades of prepared 
wax on sale by dealers. Some of these possess con- 
siderable merit. Common beeswax made soft by 
adding a small quantity of turpentine is quite equal 
to any prepared wax. 

The wax is first put on with a brush or rubbed 
on with a cloth or bit of waste and then the surface 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 197 

very thoroughly rubbed. When the surface becomes 
dingy or loses its fresh appearance, more wax may 
be applied in the same manner. Wax is one of the 
safest sorts of finish to apply, but requires consider- 
able rubbing to produce a good finish. There is 
little danger of applying too much, for any surplus 
will be removed in the rubbing. Where the wood 
has been first stained the rubbing must not be so 
hard as to remove the stain. This caution is espec- 
ially necessary when rubbing around corners or on 
raised surfaces. 



198 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 



INDEX 

Apron, boy's --------- I37 

Apron, girl's --------- 137 

Auger Bit ---------- 141 

Angle for Sharpening Tools ------ 146 



Backsaw --------- 5-179 

Backsaw, Use of - 41-48-59-76 

Bar Clamp ---------- 148 

Basil of Chisel - 146 

Bench - ..--.---.- 139 

Bench Board - ----- 7.45 

Bench Hook - - 30-102 

Bench Hook, Use of . - - 7-41-59-70-73-76-82-83-86 

Bench Set of Tools - 5 

Bench Stop - - ■• -17-140 

Bending Shelf Border -.---. - 47 

Bits - 141 

Bits, Use of -------- 38-78-118 

Bit Brace - 143 

Bit Brace, Use of - 38-78-118 

Blind Wedging - - - - 90 

Blind Mortise and Tenon 88 

Boring - - " 38-78-84 

Bridle Joint - n4 

Brushes --------- 144 

Brushes, Use of-------- 53 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 199 

Care of Tools --------- 6 

Center Bit ---•---..-_ 142 

Chamfering -------- 107-109 

Chisel - - 145 

Chiselling a Chamfer -------- 109 

Chiselling a Gain ------- 59-70-79-81 

Chiselling a Round End ------- 105 

Chiselling, Shearing Cut - 44-47-59-79 

Chisel, Sharpening a - 146 

Clamps - - - - 147 

Clamps, Using - - 63-82-118 

Cleaning Bench - 6 

Clothes Brush - - - - 4 

Compasses ------ _ 149 

Compasses, Using - - 104-108 

Compass Saw --------- 179 

Corner Shelf ----.-- - 46 

Cutting up Stock ----- - 99 

Cylinder, Making a---- --133 



Dating Work --------- 6 

Drawing Gauge Line ----- 21-57-78-118-131 

Drawing Oblique Lines - - 74 

Dovetail, Halved -------- 74 

Dovetail, Single ---------91 

Dovetail, Common -------- 93 

Dovetail, Half-blind - 96 

Dovetail, Special - 120 

DowellJoint - 117 



20'0 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Emery Grinder - - - - - - - - 153 

Equipment, Personal - - - - - - - -4 

Equipment, School -------- 5 

Exercise Material - - - - - - - - -7 

Face Marks - 16-19-72 

Face Surface - -17 

Files .--.-•- 149 

Finishing the Halved Corner 64 

Firmer Chisel (See Chisel) - 145 

Forstner Bit 141 

Fourth Side, Truing -------- 25 

Frame Mortise and Tenon - 85 

Gain, Working a ------ 59-70-112 

Gained and Rabbeted Corner - - - - -112 

Gauge ---------- 150 

Gauge, Moitising - - - - - - - - -151 

Gauge, Using 20-23-36-57-77-131 

Getting Out Stock 99 

German Bit - - - 142 

Gimlet Bit ---------- 142 

Glue ---------- 152 

Glue, Using - - 63-82-93-112-128 

Glue Brush --------- 144 

Glue Joint 126 

Glue Sizing - - 112 

Glue, Removing Surplus 64 

Grindstone 153 

Grinding of Tools 6-153 

Groove, Working - - - - - - - - - 117 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 201 

Half Blind Dovetail - 96 

Halved Corner --------- 56 

Halved Corner, Finishing -------64 

Halved Cross - - - - 71 

Halved Dovetail - - 74 

Halved Tee 68 

Hammer --___._--- 156 

Hammer, Using - 31-33-90-111 

Hand Saw -------- 5-98-174-179 

Haunched Mortise and Tenon - - - - - -115 

Hexagon ---------- 134 

Illustrations, Descriptions of ------ 8 

Introduction of Part III. ------ 136 

Introduction of Part II. Supplementary Exercises 98 

Iron Clamp -------- 148 

Jack Plane - 165-169 

Jack Plane, Using ---_.. 10-17-35-107-171 

Jointing an Edge - - - - - - 35-17-126 

Jointer Plane - 171 

Key to Drawer ---------6 

Keyhole Saw (See Compass Saw) - - - - ' - 179 

Knife - 26-27-28-36-48-70-94-97-119-131-158 

Laying off Spaces --------26 

Lavatories ------ ___6 

Lining on an Edge ------- 36-75-97 

Lining, Drawing Lines - 27-36-57-70-74-77-94-97-100-119-123-131 
Locker ___--_--_- 5 

Lumber ---------- 158 



202 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Machinist's Hammer -- - - - - - 157 

Making an Octagon -------- 130 

Making a Cylinder - 133 

Making a Hexagon - - -134 

Making a Wedge - • - 87 

Making a Pointer - r - - - - - -134 

Making a Halved Tee ----- - - 68 

Mallet - 5-86 

Marking Three Tenths 131 

Marking Personal Articles -__-_. 4 

Marking Material - - - - - - - 5-6-71 

Measuring With the Rule ___._. 25-26-131 

Mill File --------- 150 

Miter Joint --------- 121 

Mortise and Tenon, Through ------ 83 

Mortise and Tenon, Blind ------ 88 

Mortise and Tenon, Frame -.----.- 85 

Mortise and Tenon, Haunched ------ 115 

Mortise, Slip and Miter ------- 125 

Mortise, Slip and Tenon -------77 



Nails and Brads -------- 159 

Nails, Driving - - - - • - - - - 31-111 

Nails, Setting - 32 

Nails, Withdrawing ------- 32 

Nailheads, Covering - - - - - - - HI 

Nailset --------- 161 

Nailset, Using - - - - - - 32-111 

Name on Work ------- 5 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 203 

Octagon _._.----- 130 

Oilstone 4-146-162-173 

Oil Can 162 

Pencil ---------- 164 

Planes - 165 

Planes, Wooden Bottom ------ 166 

Planes, Wooden ------- 167 

Plane Irons, Adjusting ------ 168 

Plane Irons, Sharpening ----- 172-173 

Plane Irons, Grinding -_-.--'- 6-154 

Planes, Truing the Bottoms of - . 171 

Planing with the Grain ------ 16 

Planing First Surface ------ 10 

Planing First Edge .--_.--.- 17 

Planing a Chamfer ------- 107 

Planing a Circle ------- 47 

Planing a Glue Joint ------ 126 

Planing a Glued Joint ------- 64 

Planing an End Square ------ 104 

Planing, General Directions for - 14 

Planing an Octagon _--..-"- 132 

Planing a Miter ------- 123 

Planing, Position while ------ 8 

Pointer - - - « 134 

Personal Equipment ------- 4 

Putty 175 

Rabbeted Joint - 110 

Ratchet Bit Brace - 143 

Regulations -------- 5 



204 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Removing Work -_.--_--_ 7 

Ripping a Mortise -------- 79 

Rip Saws - . - 5-179 

Rip Saws, Using 19-79-94-99-193 

Riveting Hammer -------- 157 

Round Ends -------- 105-108 

Rubbing Varnish --- 55-192 

Rule - 20-23-26-104-131-175 

Sandpaper --_--_--- 177 

Sandpapering an End -- 50 

Sandpapering a Halved Corner ----- 68 

Sandpapering a Surface -------51 

Sandpapering Shellac -- 54 

Sandpapering a Cylinder 133 

Saws ---------- 179 

Saws, Use of - - . - - - 41-48-63-76-79-99-100 

Saw Clamp --------- 181 

Saw File ---------- ISO 

Saw Horse or Trestle ------- 99 

Saw Set ---------- 182 

School Equipment ------- 5 

Scraper ---------- 182 

Scraper, Using a--- 54-184 

Scribing a Dovetail - - - - - - - 94-97-120 

Second Surface -------- 17 

Screw Driver - - 173-186 

Shearing Cut with Chisel - 45-49-59-70-79 

Shelf Border - - - - ' - - - - 35 to 45 

Shellac - - - 188 

Shellacing - 53 



ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 205 

Shellac Brush -------- 144 

Sighting for Straightness -.____ 10 

Sighting for Wind or Twist ------- 12 

Single Dovetail --__'.__, 91 

Sizing with Glue - - - - - - - - -112 

Slip Mortise and Miter - - - - - - - 125 

Slip Mortise and Tenon ----_.-_ 77 

Smooth Plane ___...__ 5-165 

Smooth Plane, Using - - - 10-14-47-67-104-107-123-132 
Smooth Plane, Sharpening ------ 172 

Soap ---___-___ 4 

Special Dovetail Joint ------- 12O 

Splitting Out Waste Material ------ 58 

Squaring an End ------- 49-76-104 

Squares ---------- 137 

Squares, Steel - - - - - - - 187 

Trysquare - - - - -- - - - 187 

Stains and Paints -------- 189 

Straight Edge -----.-._ 12 

Strop ---------- 190 

Superposition, method of ------ - 70 

Supplementary Exercises - - - - - 99 to 135 

Taper Saw File - - - - - - - - 150 

Tearing Sandpaper ._-_-_. 50 

Tee Bevel --------- 191 

Tee Bevel, Setting ---_._. 123-191 

Tee Bevel, use of-------- 123 

Third Side of Piece -------- 23 

Towel ----'--_-.. 4 

Through Mortise and Tenon ------ S3 



206 ELEMENTARY WOODWORK 

Truing the First Surface - - - - - - - - 10 

Try-Square --------- 187 

Setting to a Point on a Line ----- 26-48 

In Testing Sawing ------- 100 

In Testing Lines - - - - - - - - 29 

In Testing Joints - - - - - - 61 to 67 

In Testing Round Ends ----- 106 

In Testing a Bit - - - - - - - - 37 

In Testing a Surface ------- 11-18 

Holding the Try-Square ----- - 12-27-48 

Twist Bit - - - - - - - - - - 142 

Twist Drill --------- 141 



Waste Material - - - ' - - - - - 6-19 

Wax - - - - - - - - - - - 196 

Wedging ---------- 87-90 

Withdrawing Nails - - - * - - - - - - 33 

Wind or Twist, Sighting for - - - - - - 11 

Wire Edge, Removing ------- 146 

Wooden Hand Screw - - - . _ _ _ _ - 147 

Work Bench - - - - - - - 139 

Work Bench, Care of - - - - - - - 6-7-139 

Vises ---------- 193 

Vise, Use of - - 17-35-36-38-67-71-72-75-78-79-104-193 



\ 1906 



